Keep Burning Glow Plugs In Diesel 2001 Ford Courier

[BOOZTJUNKEY]

As above my car ha burnt another set of glow plugs

I started her in the middle of the day and rough started (unburnt diesel)

I don't under stand why it's doing this I have three possible souloutions but after advice from experienced diesel mechanics

1 . They are over charging and not turning off all the time

2. Diesel pump is leaning the mixture and killing them( which I suspect because it doesn't really leave any diesel smoke under accel and always thought it may run lean )

3. There not getting enough power and there being killed from being started before glowing ?

Any help appreciated

[jiffo]

Bloody glow plugs.

Don't understand why these things are needed in modern high speed diesels, yet they all have them.

Must be for initial start-up emissions.

Are they ceramic or metal. Ceramic are a worry, they fall to bits in your cylinder and that's bad.

1. Fit a temporary warning light to the glow circuit so you can tell when they're on or off.

2. Diesels run colder when lean, opposite to petrol.

3. ECU usually controls the glow and afterglow. If you fit a warning light you'll know what's going on.

[BOOZTJUNKEY]

Good advice mate will definitely give that ago I'm pretty sure the plugs had a ceramic cap because a bit was broken of one of the old ones :-/

[ARTZ]

isnt there usually a light on the dash anyway..my mazda has one..stays on for a second when you switch to on then goes off..squiqqly line with 2 loops

[jiffo]

Nope that's just for initial start, shows the engine is ready to go but doesn't tell you if power still going to the glows according to the ecu's settings.

Afterglow is usually on a reducing voltage and is engine coolant dependant as well as time, all decided by the ecu.

Might pay to check that the relay's contacts aren't cooked on, do the simple stuff first.

isnt there usually a light on the dash anyway..my mazda has one..stays on for a second when you switch to on then goes off..squiqqly line with 2 loops

[MattR]

mate had the same problem, he ended up getting nissan GQ patrol plugs and using them. so sure if they will solve the problem with yours but did with his

[blk94r33]

Are you sure it's actually burning/damaging them? Or are they not running for long enough?

Courier 2.5L TD's had an issue with the coolant temp sensor and control unit for the glow time meaning they'd run for 1/2 second regardless....

[BOOZTJUNKEY]

Thanks for the help guys .

I would assume there were working properly because they lasted a month or so before its started rough again

I will hook a light to them and check relays an see if that helps thanks again

[Fast_32]

Lol had this same problem on a truck at work, either over fueling and heats them up to much, has a leaking head gasket and creates steam this melting them or idk if your glow plugs run constantly like the isuzus, but might be staying on and building so much heat it melts? Never heard of the last but spouse it could be a cause. Does your ute soot heaps?

[BOOZTJUNKEY]

Update went out with the multi meter to see what Is happening

When I turn the key to on to prime the plugs they prime as they should and turn off

But when I started it I get 13.8 v constantly going to the plugs which I don't think is right because if they were suppose to stay on they wouldn't turn off after priming them yeah?

So yeah gunna try replacing the relay now.

Will post up when I find out

[blk94r33]

Are you getting 13.8 when you turn the key BEFORE you start it?

Pretty sure courier glow plugs are only meant to run at 9 volts..........

[jiffo]

You say they fire up and time out prior to start so to me that says their relay is working fine.

Next is the afterglow period. The glows will run on after start-up, for a period determined by the ecu from time and coolant temp input.

This is why you need a temporary warning light wired in, to see if the glows are staying on constantly once the engine reaches operating temp.

I'd use a LED so it will still work down at low voltage.

Often the afterglow runs down to reduced voltage, but I'm not familiar with the Ford system.

Likewise I don't know the correct voltage for your glows, it would be easy for you to check via their part number.

[OMGGTR]

Simply hook up ur multymetre to the positive of the glow rail u should have 0 volts on ignition should get ur 13 whatever volts for roughly 10 seconds and then 0 volts again if you are getting 13 for too long there is an obvious issue simply wire in a switch to manually glow ur car bypass ur glow system ? Ive done it before

[BOOZTJUNKEY]

Time for update been busy looking for work etc

I hooked up a multi this morning to see how long they stay on for they do after glow till its up to temp which I don't think it needs so I am gunna hook a switch that also illuminates some time this week to see If it helps the new set I put in life's span

If they burn them still I will have to get a co2 test done on the coolant

Because it may have cracked the head which is supposedly a common courier problem

It does seem to use a bit more coolant then I would like it to

Although I can't see where it is going so :-/

So will keep y'all posted

[BOOZTJUNKEY]

So I filled up this morning from dead empty at my local bp

All good drove for about 15mins and then BAM my water sedimentor light came on showing water in the diesel :-(

I got home and drained the filter to see how much water was in it and I my heart sunk

I half filled a power aid bottle with the contents of the filter

And it was what looked like half diesel half water

I have the understanding that diesel is not as heavy as water because it's not as dense

But the contents of the bottle contained what looked like diesel on the bottom ( browny coloured liquid) and the top looked like waterery white coloured substance ???

I know I can dilute it with fuel doctor or diesel power but they cost money I don't have till I get back to work next week so I'm after other ways to get the fuel sorted

Any one shed some light on this

Edited March 14, 2012 by BOOZTJUNKEY

[OMGGTR]

Get a clear bottle(clean) fill it from ur actual fuel tank should be a drain nut under it someware if there is water in there drain the whole thing drop it clean it out re fit refuel new filter etc by sounds of it uve f*ked the injectorpumP and injectors but lets just forget that coz ur low on money lolol

[OMGGTR]

If theres no water in the tank new fuel filter and please invest in a proper water seperator

[BOOZTJUNKEY]

Couple of mates work at fuel doctor so we went in today flushed the tank and ran polished diesel throught and cleaned the filter for now and it runs so much better now and yeah the diesel was contaminated it was a pale white colour but now it's all nice and clean so I can stress less for now .

Now just to sort my plugs out

Thanks guys

[OMGGTR]

Ahh awesome news !!

[BOOZTJUNKEY]

Alright time for an update

Been busy getting stuffed around for work

Ok new problem has arose to add to my woes hahaha

Yesterday was driving home on the highway and the car started surging pretty bad ad losing power like it was a non turbo with effed rings

Also why it's surging it loses all boost and coughs up blueish smoke ?

I thought the Turbo may have given so I pulled the dump off to check the seals and wheels and all seems good

I have suspected my rear muffler is on its way out because it's always had a rattle from the back of the car like someone is shaking some m12 bolts in a milo tin I'm about to drop the muffler and see if that makes it any better ? Would a collapsed muffler cause these symptoms? I personally don't thinks so but yeh

If not I will comp test engine and do a air leak test

Anybody no how to run these cars for errors?