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Ffs Rb30Det Issues!

Gts4RB30

By Gts4RB30,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Dobz Experienced

Dobz

Posted
Posted

Holy shit those guys are idiots, i hate to say it but that's not gonna come of in one piece. It'll have to be cut off because a 0.2mm interference fit is tight as f**k. A fit that tight should see the collar heated up, slipped on the crank and left to shrink on.

I shrunk my collar on with a 0.1mm interference and 0.1mm crush on the length, 270rwkw and 7000km's with some pretty hard driving and it hasn't let me down.

Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted

this happened to me, years ago.... except we built the engine and ran it like that.

What ended up happening is that the collar wore through the back plate of the timing gear, then that caused the balancer to come lose, the balancer started to flop around and it destroyed itself, also it destroyed the crank, then keyway was screwed in the crank.

Nothing i could to but replace the crank, then the new crank that came back from the same engine builder was the same! the collar was sitting over the crank itself. It was only after looking at the new crank for 1 hour trying to work out what happened when i figured it all out! was pretty happy i did not have to go all around and rip the motor appart again for a third time???

I took it back and asked him just to machine it flat so that collar is flush with the crank, 5 years and 160,000km later and all is still good. (inspected it a couple of months ago)

good work for picking it up, saved yourself alot of cash and time etc etc... mine is not grub screwed, and its still working like a charm..

Dobz Experienced

Dobz

Posted
Posted

Looking at one of the photo's close up you can see metal that has burred up and jammed it from them pressing it on so heavily. That tells me two thing: first of all those guys are sloppy, second that the chamfer on the inside diameter of the collar isn't big enough to accommodate the radius i can see on the crank.

With that said i would bet that it's not going to move towards the crank shoulder any more than that so machining the front off leavingabout 0.1mm of overhang on the face for the crank pulley and balancer to tighten down on.

Also make sure they machine back the start of the drive flats so doesn't protrude into the front seal area.

I'm bored so i put this drawing together to explain, you could give it to those drongos to fix it because it looks like they need all the help they can get.

post-23983-0-82917200-1331515444_thumb.png

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