Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the engine choice was sinple, i wanted reliable power, and could not look past the 1jz, especially after seeing ash's what hes got on it and the power it makes,

mine wont be as mental and my driving level is no where near ready, im aiming for about 220-240kws, that i can turn the key drift all day drive home, turn off wait till next day,

i have paid for eninge, waiting for a few thing to be touched up on it,

going an r155 gearbox, no i dont mean r154, i mean r155 out of a rwd hilux because its atleast $1000 cheaper smile.png

here is how the car sits atm waiting on engine, mounts, box

GOPR0028_zpsa5e8aefa.jpg

  • Replies 99
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

  • 2 weeks later...

not heaps has happend, made and ran new clutch line, moved battery, wiring thats staying has been moved, old rb20 loom removed and made a head sheild for low mount turbo,

dropped car off today at a mates workshop who sold me the 1jz, will be fitting it this week after hours and hopefully il get it back next weekend bolted in and wired up

all that will be left will be exhasut, intercooler piping and tailshaft,

have also sorted yoke for r155 ready to get measurments and take it to engineering palce,

DSCF2716_zpsf1eb3155.jpg

DSCF2717_zpsadfb4201.jpg

DSCF2719_zps3e75b6ce.jpg

DSCF2720_zpsd19b1244.jpg

DSCF2721_zpsbdcdba52.jpg

love the heat shield. How you going about wiring in all the wipers and other accesorries like headlights ect. I do admit i love the sound of a 1J on full tilt as much as i love an RB noise. Looking forward to seeing it once its in.

dont need to touch the hedlight wiring, wiper motor plug gets cut out of rb20 loom and ran with new loom,

im not doing the wiring, my mate manager of tmm (the workshop im using this week, is doing the patch loom,

motor got dropped in tonight and taken out for mount measurements, lom like it was made for an r32 engine bay

the engine and gearbox mounts have been made and with the mounts the mx83 tailshaft i got purly just for the yoke is now the exactl length of the r32 to diff and even the centre bearings line up with a bit of elongating, all that has to be done is get r32 diff uni put on mx83 tailshaft to keep diff changes normal,

stock 1jz twin manifolds to big single manifold peice has been made and looks wicked,

got a shopping list of bits to grab tomorrow and drop of at martins,

hopefully saturday a big day can be had and connect alot of things,

no pics as iphone pics are shocking

yeah full new custom 3inch exhuast straight through was made today will post pics tomorrow

car goes back to martins on tuesday night for hookup of wiring and all fuel, water, oil lines

might somehow get it going maybe before practice day

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...