Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am having a little bit of a problem with my SBC-iD.

In first and Second gear I can't hit 15psi of boost.

In first the max it hits is around 14psi then dropps off to around 13psi then in second it may hit 14.7psi then it will drop off to 13.6psi.

Third is a little longer so it seems that it has more time to get its sh it together and will hold boost to around 14.8psi.

Fourth sits perfectly on 15psi.

---

In the manual it stresses to use the rubber hose supplied which is a smaller diam by about 2x over the origional wastegate/turbo rubber hose. It states to use a size changer.

How critical is this as I havn't done this and i'm using the regular fuel line size hose from the wastegate/turbo to the Solanoid.

I'm going to have a fiddle today but I would like to hear of any experience or your thoughts on this power loosing problem in low gears.

All Sorted PPls.

Replaced the std fuel line hose size wastegate hose with the one supplied and walla.. It holds more stable boost without it going up and down 1/2 - 1psi and now along with the scramble setting set it rocks.. :)

I've set it up to run 1.1 bar for 3secs then it levels out to 15psi.

First gear now pulls hard and so does second :D

  • 2 weeks later...

It doesn't actually increase performance it only holds boost better and safer.

Before with the std bleed valve setting the mid to around 15psi up over 5500rpm it would drop to 12psi.

It also helps with the tuning I guess as in hoter weather boost wont go as high with the trad. bleed valves and in cold weather the boost will be higher.

The best i could get with near std timing on 12psi was 152rwkw.

Agressive timing was 156rwkw.

Now with near std timing i'm getting 164rwkw.

Boost is a bit smoother coming on so its easier to control wheel spin, where as with the bleed it would spike to around 17psi cause wheel spin then settle on 15 then drop to 12.

You probably arn't loosing boost up top because of the bigger turbo not running out of puff like mine but another thing to keep in mind is that with the bigger laggier turbos a ebc can help bring boost on quicker.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...