Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well the time has come to regretably sell my pride and joy R32-GTR. I imported this myself in 2005 and did a bare shell respray in Black with a blue Pearl.

Every Nut , Bolt , seals were replaced with new genuine nissan items when put back together . The car is immaculate and is in pretty much show condition .

I know im going to forget to list everything that the car has on it but i will try my best to list most things.

The engine has probably only done 1500k's since been built as i hardly drive it . Currently sitting on 550rwhp soft tune although makes 600+ if needed (have dyno sheets )

The list of engine parts are :

Brand new n1 block

HKS Pistons

HKS Rods

HKS Oil Pump

HKS Head Gasket

HKS Fuel Rail

HKS fuel Reg

Sard 720cc injectors

Nismo Big end and main bearings

ATI Balancer

Ported and Polished Head

Supertec Valvesz

HKS Step II 272 10.2 MM lift cams

HKS Springs

To4z Turbo with custom stainless steel manifold

Apexi 60mm wastegate

HKS Twin Power Ignition

Splitfire Coilpacks

HKS 130mm Intercooler

Im sure theres plenty i have forgotten regarding the engine so call me for more info.

Some more things the car has.

Ferrari F50 Calipers on 350mm Trust 2 piece rotors ( as new )

Brembo r33 gtr rear brakes

All braided stainless ADR approved brake lines

SSR type c-rs 18 x 9.5 forged bronze rims

Apexi N1 Twin Exhaust System

Bosch 044 Fuel Pump

Bilstein Ajustable shock abosorbers with Eibach Springs

OS Giken r3c Triple plate clutch (as new)

Power FC-DJetro computer

Blitz spec-r boost controller

Defi oil , boost , fuel pressure , gauges

Innovate air/fuel ratio gauge

This car has been meticulously maintained and looked after and would not dissapoint. Is ready for track use if needed but have never done so. Has run 10.80 at 133mph full street tune on street tyres. No expense has been spared making this package super quick and super reliable. Feel free to ring for more info. Located in Perth but more then happy to assist someone in getting it over east.

Looking for $35k ono

Simon 0403364469

post-3878-0-55581300-1332678380_thumb.jpg

post-3878-0-04355700-1332678485_thumb.jpg

post-3878-0-49364700-1332678660_thumb.jpg

post-3878-0-26497200-1332678710_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/395900-built-10-second-r32-gtr/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...