Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm currently in the middle of a turbo swap and am upgrading my injectors at the same time. I've purchased second hand cleaned/tested Denso 550s, they have the same impedance as the stock injectors.

I've already consulted this thread while attempting to get my stock injectors out:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/140970-injectors-how-to-removereplaceupgrade/

However it is for the R33, obviously having side feed injectors and a different arrangements of hoses etc, all my searching has only produced guides on changing injectors in an RB26 or wiring GT-R injectors in a GTS-T.

My main problem is I cannot crack the allen bolts on my throttle body regardless of how much force I apply, seems silly to use allen bolts instead of hex bolts in such an important spot.

Is it essential to remove the throttle body? I've already removed and cleaned the AAC and all piping has already been removed due to the turbo swap.

Also I did not relieve the fuel pressure before I started work on the car, will this be a problem? Should I pull the fuse and run the car dry even though I currently have no exhaust manifold on the car? I would have to re-install the AAC to do so wouldn't I?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/396617-r32-rb20det-injector-replacement/
Share on other sites

The fuel will just spray out no big deal as for throttle body removing it will make life a lot easier but it is possible to install injectors without removing tb make sure you put injectors in the rail before install as you may damage the o rings

Just pulled the injectors out of my 32 but i took off the top half of the manifold to get at the injectors and fuel rail, heaps of room now, also i suggest that you fit new injector seals while you have things apart

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...