Jump to content
SAU Community

New Timing Belt Destroyed And New Oil Leak

datsun_1600

By datsun_1600,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

datsun_1600 Enthusiast

datsun_1600

Posted
Posted

Hey - it was a sad day in the shed today... I changed the timing belt and tensioners on my R32 GTR and now I have some serious problems....

I would consider myself fairly experienced in the shed, i've built say 10 high performance L series Datto engines and have tinkered in the shed since I could walk. Changed quite a few timing belts over the years with no issues.

OK so this is how it went down:

1.) Pulled the old timing belt and tensioners off

2.) replaced the tensioners

3.) Fitted the belt (100% sure timing was ok - and it still is ok)

4.) Adjusted belt tension as per the book. Timing belt flex was basically the same as the old one.

5.) Tuned it over a few times by hand - tension all ok.

5.) Refitted everything required to run except upper cam pulley cover

6.) Fitted the CAS without the cover and started the engine - all ok.

7.) Ran it for a few mins and observed the belt - ran true and was all ok

8.) Fitted the covers etc etc etc

9.) Started it and it and after about 10 seconds it made a strange sound - like the a flange rubbing on the front pully or something.

10.) Killed it immediately (was standing at the engine so I guess it ran for a few seconds)

I stood there for a good ten mins thinking about what it could have been... anyhoo... I then noticed oil leaking from under the front pulley... I pulled the top cam cover off and noted that the new belt had partly disintegrated and there was oil everywhere.

I haven't pulled the bottom cover off yet so I don't know if if the oil is coming from the front main or the cam towers or what.

Has anyone got any ideas as to what might have gone wrong ? New tensioners look ok but can't tell if they are stuffed until I pull the radiator bottom covers etc etc. It almost looks like the belt was rubbing on something - the edge facing towards the engine...Then it shredded and the long sting bits wedged up hard again the oil seals and took them out...

Any ideas ? I'll grab a new belt / seals tomorrow - but I just don't want this to happen again... Thank god the belt didn't break.

Cheers,

Jeff

RB25 SKYLINE Experienced

RB25 SKYLINE

Posted
Posted

what brand of belt and tensioner?did u buy a full kit including seals?did u replace all seals?id be pulling both covers off and check for rubbing on the covers or anywhere else.also check all pulleys for any movement.one thing ive learnt over the years is do skimp on a timing belt kit.hope this helps good luck.

datsun_1600 Enthusiast

datsun_1600

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Cheers mate will do - everything is genuine Nissan stuff. Didn't replace the front main or cam seals as they were done about 30K ago... but i'll be doing them now I guess.....oh well live and learn - i'll post back with what caused it when I pull the bottom cover off tomorrow....

datsun_1600 Enthusiast

datsun_1600

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Update - Pulled the bottom cover off. The only thing I could see was they idler puller tensioner spring was not sitting on the locating dowel. But it was correct when it was installed so i'm guessing the belt strands dislodged it... The belt strands also look like they have wrapped around the cams and crank taking out the oil seals... Wish I could see what the inner side of the belt rubbed on....

datsun_1600 Enthusiast

datsun_1600

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Another update - I think I have worked out what went wrong. I just inspected the idler tensioner pulley. To my great surprise I found it totally stuffed. Brand new Nissan OEM part. I am guessing as it has so much free play it caused the belt to not run true, which pushed the belt into into the spring, which took a few good chunks out.... New one coming in tomorrow...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
×
×
  • Create New...