Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

But also just wondering what are the results with a boxed in pod

Thinking the same thing, Because i made a Pipe coming from the direct air of my bar through to my Pods which are gna be Boxed very soon.

The previous owner of my car was kind enough to supply me with the stock airbox, However it had about 50 holes drilled through the top. So had no real choice but to stick with the pod. Mine is in a proper enclosure though.

Im keen to run to my car on a dyno with my pods exclosed with a cai tube from the bar. Then again with the tube blocked up... Just to seriously see if it does make a difference.

not to crap on those guys videos, but to generalise and say that putting a pod or K&n filter onto every car will make no difference, or make you lose power is a bit wrong. some cars respond better to intake mods than others. i've owned cars where filter changes have made a noticable difference, and others where it hasn't done squat. it really comes down to the design of the individual intake

Correct Dear Sir.

Instead of debating...

'box or pod' > 'pod or box'

'dry or oil' > 'oil or dry' etc...

consider firstly this...

On the R34 GTR, one can have a standard box but change the intake.

Nismo R&D came up with an intake that increases airflow by 15%

Nissan itself don't forget had a knock-out baffle that was kept in place so that it could further add weight to its argument of staying 'within the legal constraint of 206Kw at the fly'

The exposed pod Vs enclosed pod/airbox is the problem, though on the dyno when a fan is blowing/forcing air into the radiator/air intake is not a accurate test on the road test.

The problem with a exposed pod is when stationary or at low speeds, not enough air is being forced into the engine bay to displace the hot air created by the radiant heat from the motor.

With a airbox or proper enclosed pod with a CAI the air will be at a much lower temperature than the exposed pod, cooler air is more dense which we all know is what you need.

A exposed pod will sound like its better due to the louder induction noise but will be less efficient until enough speed is reached to displace to hot air at the filter under the bonnet, which is fine when your traveling at high speeds but you pay for it at lower speeds.

The theory behind the pod is you have a greater surface area which in turn helps it flow, but sucking in hot air will negate any benefit until high speed is reached, even then the air still won't be as cold as a enclosed filter with CAI.

For a street car or drag car when you want the coldest air possible from 0kpm to have the most response a exposed pod under the bonnet will reduce the efficiency of the motor.

Go for a drive and then open the bonnet and touch where the filter is, that's the temp of the air going in. do the same with a enclosed one and you will notice a huge difference in temperature.

Its simple physics.

But as always simple heckticness seems to beat simple physics.

The exposed pod Vs enclosed pod/airbox is the problem, though on the dyno when a fan is blowing/forcing air into the radiator/air intake is not a accurate test on the road test.

The problem with a exposed pod is when stationary or at low speeds, not enough air is being forced into the engine bay to displace the hot air created by the radiant heat from the motor.

With a airbox or proper enclosed pod with a CAI the air will be at a much lower temperature than the exposed pod, cooler air is more dense which we all know is what you need.

A exposed pod will sound like its better due to the louder induction noise but will be less efficient until enough speed is reached to displace to hot air at the filter under the bonnet, which is fine when your traveling at high speeds but you pay for it at lower speeds.

The theory behind the pod is you have a greater surface area which in turn helps it flow, but sucking in hot air will negate any benefit until high speed is reached, even then the air still won't be as cold as a enclosed filter with CAI.

For a street car or drag car when you want the coldest air possible from 0kpm to have the most response a exposed pod under the bonnet will reduce the efficiency of the motor.

Go for a drive and then open the bonnet and touch where the filter is, that's the temp of the air going in. do the same with a enclosed one and you will notice a huge difference in temperature.

Its simple physics.

But as always simple heckticness seems to beat simple physics.

About sums up everything thrown at ya.

good post. I might just get a dyno with my pods exposed then another dyno with my pods enclosed with a cai tube from my bar direct .

About sums up everything thrown at ya.

good post. I might just get a dyno with my pods exposed then another dyno with my pods enclosed with a cai tube from my bar direct .

You missed my point though about the DYNO, it doesnt matter if you have 350kw or 355kw at peak rpm on a dyno (which is only a tuning tool), its the initial acceleration, from standstill, a efficient motor with less power will initially outperform a less efficiant one with more power, and when we are talking about a only a few kw its not enough to makeup for the weaker performace down low.

Im sure a dyno can be set up so that you can get on it from idle and go through the gears to access the acceleration charicteristics, Im far from a expert on this.

Sorry if Im confusing things, I know what Im meaning to say, COLD AIR GOOD, HOT AIR BAD, LOL.

Basically I am guessing as long as whatever your intake is as long as it is exposed to as cool as air possible it should be sweet, be it an enclosed pod with CAI or the standard air box with CAI.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • sold listed as a Tomei LSD 1.5 Way For 1998+ Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT RB25DE w/Open R200 https://www.ebay.com/itm/174006114594?campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms=&campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=71883f2ccc571356e0a757bc7adfdde2&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms= it went in like butter all gears, alignment, back lash etc, rotation and clearances correct, and if rolling all rotates smooth and free when coasting down road , clutch in or out over 10 mph smooth... its the binding, clunking and jerking from a stop that is most concerning, also seems like its going to tear the tires off in 10 miles of normal road driving. 
    • What 1.5 way? There's no such thing really as a 1.5 way, just different ways of explaining 2 ways with different ramp rates. HOWEVER. In any driving in a straight line your 1.5 or 2 or 1.7 way should have no clunking at all. With the clutch fully depressed the diff should be silent (unless it's welded but I'm assuming it's not). Something aint right here.
    • Clutch is a spec brand, new clutch system,( PP, flywheel, friction disc, etc. pull type) installed 100 miles ago, with no problems.
    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
×
×
  • Create New...