Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

I am selling my 2001 Nissan S15 Spec R adm model.

The car was previously registered in Sydney, plates: BTU38T VIN: JN1GAAS15A0001781

Story is I bought the car from Sydney two months ago, planning to get it registered in Victoria, at the same time knowing that the vehicle had previous accident history but have passed viv successfully. It is listed as a repairable/written off vehicle.

The car was going to get regeod as it passed rwc, but I later found out at Vic Roads on the day that it will require a viv inspection in the state also. I have now therefore decided to put the car up for sale as I dont have the time to go through the process.

For people that are interested living up in NSW, the car can easily get registered as it has already been cleared by the inspection and it will not require another one, only rwc & rego.

The car drives perfectly. Straight doesn't pull to one side, no vibrations and mechanically A1. Interior is kept in a tidy condition, exterior could use a respray in areas such as the front bar, bonnet that has a few dints and the right rear quater panel has a key line scratch.

- Color is Pewter

- 6speed manual

- approx 111,000km's on the clock

- T28 Turbo

- Braided turbo lines

- FMIC with HKS piping both coated in gloss black

- tinted windows

- lowered suspension

- 3.5" HKS exhaust, custom 2.5" twin tips for the stock look.

- Pod filter

The car is located in St Albans, 25 mins from the Melbourne CBD.

Inspections are more then welcome.

Please txt/PM or call me to make an appointment for inspection on 0431 068 447

Note: Work rims does not come with the car, as the stock rims will be supplied. Otherwise if you are really keen on the wheels I will require $1,700 extra for the wheels & tires.

$14,000 or open to swaps (let me know what you have but has to be auto) + cash my way

I will accomodate buyers with freighting but you must pay for it.

Thanks for reading!

Edited by RJ06
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/398160-for-sale-2001-nissan-s15-spec-r-adm/
Share on other sites

Here's a couple of photos, If anyone is after more click the link below as I have uploaded a huge amount of photos up on photobucket they are out of order but have a flick through.

Forgot to mention, in addition the car has factory sunroof & bosch 040.

Cheers

IMG_1784.jpg

IMG_1593.jpg

http://s42.photobuck...rockyjnr06/S15/

Edited by RJ06
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Hey just got a report from https://transact.ppsr.gov.au/ppsr/SearchForMotorVehicle and got the following. says its written off?

Motor Vehicle

Type: CAR / SMALL PASSENGER VEHICLE Make: NISSAN

Body type: SEDAN Model: S15 200 SX SILVA

Colour: GREY

Registration plate number: State vehicle registered: NSW

Registration expiry:

Year of manufacture: Year of compliance:

Written off:

Collision, NSW, 09 Feb 2010,

Inspected Collision, NSW, 14 Jan 2009, Economic Repairable Write-off

Hey just got a report from https://transact.pps...ForMotorVehicle and got the following. says its written off?

Motor Vehicle

Type: CAR / SMALL PASSENGER VEHICLE Make: NISSAN

Body type: SEDAN Model: S15 200 SX SILVA

Colour: GREY

Registration plate number: State vehicle registered: NSW

Registration expiry:

Year of manufacture: Year of compliance:

Written off:

Collision, NSW, 09 Feb 2010,

Inspected Collision, NSW, 14 Jan 2009, Economic Repairable Write-off

incoming price drop

Hey just got a report from https://transact.pps...ForMotorVehicle and got the following. says its written off?

Motor Vehicle

Type: CAR / SMALL PASSENGER VEHICLE Make: NISSAN

Body type: SEDAN Model: S15 200 SX SILVA

Colour: GREY

Registration plate number: State vehicle registered: NSW

Registration expiry:

Year of manufacture: Year of compliance:

Written off:

Collision, NSW, 09 Feb 2010,

Inspected Collision, NSW, 14 Jan 2009, Economic Repairable Write-off

Read the first post again properly.

Story is I bought the car from Sydney two months ago, planning to get it registered in Victoria, at the same time knowing that the vehicle had previous accident history but have passed viv successfully. It is listed as a repairable/written off vehicle.

Some people need to read.

Sorry guys, i havent been on here for a while, if you have any questions please just call or message me i can answer all your questions, otherwise PM me ill try my best to hop on sau a couple times a week to check my pm's.

Car is still for sale, had plenty of offers keep them coming! :)

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers)
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
    • OK, Step 3, if you need to remove the valve body, either to replace it, the TCM, or to do a more complete drain.  First, you need to disconnect the TCM input wires, they are about half way up the transmission on the drivers side. One plug and the wires are out of the way, but there is also a spring clip that stops the socket from sliding back into the transmission. On my car the spring clip was easy to get, but the socket was really stuck in the o-ring of the transmission housing and took some.....persuasion. You can see both the plug to remove (first) and the spring clip (second) in this pic Incidentally, right next to the plug, you can see where the casting has allowance for a dispstick/filler which Nissan decided not to provide. there is a cap held on with a 6mm head bolt that you can remove to overfill it (AMS recommend a 1.5l overfill). Final step before the big mess, remove the speed sensor that is clipped to the valve body at the rear of the box.  Then removal of the Valve Body. For this the USDM Q50 workshop manual has a critical diagram: There are a billion bolts visible. Almost all of them do not need to be removed, just the 14 shown on the diagram. Even so, I both removed one extra, and didn't check which length bolt came from which location (more on that later....). Again it is worth undoing the 4 corners first, but leaving them a couple of turns in to hold the unit up....gravity is not your friend here and trans oil will be going everywhere. Once the corners are loose but still in remove all the other 10 bolts, then hold the valve body up with 1 hand while removing the final 4. Then, everything just comes free easily, or like in my case you start swearing because that plug is stuck in the casing. Done, the valve body and TCM are out
    • OK, so if you are either going for the bigger fluid change or are changing the valve body which includes the Transmission Control Module (TCM), first you should have both a new gasket 31397-1XJ0A and a torque wrench that can work down to 8Nm (very low, probably a 1/4 drive one). You can probably get by without either, but I really didn't want to pull it all apart together due to a leak. First, you now need that big oil pan. The transmission pan is 450 long x 350 wide, and it will probably leak on all sides, so get ready for a mess. There are 24x 6mm headed bolts holding the pan on. I undid the 2 rear corners, then screwed those bolts back in a couple of turns to let the pan go low at that end, then removed all the middle bolts on each side. Then, undo the front corner bolts slowly while holding the pan up, and 80% of the fluid will head out the rear. From there, remove the remaining bolts and the pan is off. You can see it is still dripping oil absolutely everywhere...it dripped all night.... I got another couple of litres when I removed the pan, and then another few when I removed the valve body - all up another 4l on top of the 3 already dropped in step 1.
×
×
  • Create New...