Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

My cousin has recently purchased a 1999 Nissan Maxima A32 30GV with 222,xxx km for a great price.

The car is 100% stock and mechanically A1. However it has some annoying electrical issues (which we used for bargaining).

1. The remote central locking does not seem to be working. Central locking seems to work fine if we use the actual key to lock/unlock the doors. The original owner told us the remote function stopped working recently and suggested the fix is as easy as changing the battery (CR2025) in the remote. We have put a new battery in the remote (tried both directions) - Still doesn't work. Any suggestions before we go and get someone to install a new central locking system etc?

2. The stock radio seems to forget station memory and sound quality is very tinny and weak - it sounds crap. We have tried adjusting bass and treble settings - No difference. To the best of my knowledge I thought these cars have "premium" sound. Is there any other possible settings or connectors we may need to change/tweak or do we just change the head unit?

3. The electronic in cabin boot release does not seem to work. We can hear a clicking sound in the boot. We also tried adjusting the cancel tab in the boot - makes no difference.

Cheers

Hi all,

My cousin has recently purchased a 1999 Nissan Maxima A32 30GV with 222,xxx km for a great price.

The car is 100% stock and mechanically A1. However it has some annoying electrical issues (which we used for bargaining).

1. The remote central locking does not seem to be working. Central locking seems to work fine if we use the actual key to lock/unlock the doors. The original owner told us the remote function stopped working recently and suggested the fix is as easy as changing the battery (CR2025) in the remote. We have put a new battery in the remote (tried both directions) - Still doesn't work. Any suggestions before we go and get someone to install a new central locking system etc?

the remotes on those are prone to dying. they are available new from nissan but require programming. that is the easier option as those cars had remote alarms on them as standard and adding another remote unit over the top of the existing will cause hassles.

2. The stock radio seems to forget station memory and sound quality is very tinny and weak - it sounds crap. We have tried adjusting bass and treble settings - No difference. To the best of my knowledge I thought these cars have "premium" sound. Is there any other possible settings or connectors we may need to change/tweak or do we just change the head unit?

does it have the eurovox radio (long display that runs across the radio) or the clarion one (display on left side) the eurovox is crap. given the age of the car I would replace all of the speakers as they would be dry rotted by now. 6'5" front and rear.

3. The electronic in cabin boot release does not seem to work. We can hear a clicking sound in the boot. We also tried adjusting the cancel tab in the boot - makes no difference.

Cheers

they had a lock out on them the only way to open it was with the key. if that IS the case look at where the catch is on the car. you will see a tab that pokes out at 90 deg - pull that UP and check the electric release.

Thanks Chris.

Regarding the remote - Is it worth getting a genuine nissan item or an after market remote we can program ourselves eg. http://www.amazon.co...s/dp/B003RB63EQ

The headunit seems to be a Clarion (pic attached)

post-41585-0-90175400-1335162082_thumb.jpg

Edited by iseekool

yes there is. the round clarion item runs the 4 speakers. it has a bit of grunt and that also tells me that you have the clarion tape radio with the external 6cd in there. if you wnat to keep it looking stock I sell Ipod patches for those decks.

Thanks Chris.

Regarding the remote - Is it worth getting a genuine nissan item or an after market remote we can program ourselves eg. http://www.amazon.co...s/dp/B003RB63EQ

The headunit seems to be a Clarion (pic attached)

get the correct one for the car FORGET going aftermarket.

You are spot on. The surrounds of the speakers are gone, no wonder why the sound is terrible.

My cousin plans to keep the stock HU. He also figured out how to store stations. He doesn't want to spend too much, as he just wants something that is decent for day-to-day (he isn't a car enthusiast). He is looking at just "drop in replacements" what's your opinion on Pioneer TS-G1644R or any other speakers in that ball park price range? Or is he better off saving for better speakers? I'll tell him about your iPod connectors - I'm sure it's something he wants.

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Chris, it seems the head unit is actually stuffed - it seems the stations get "dropped" randomly and seems to just shutoff randomly if it has been on for long periods of time. The CD player also seems to no longer play CDs even genuine CDs.

Do you have any recommendations for replacement HU? (he is looking at either clarion fz709 or cz309)

Is it worth the effort with keeping the external factory Clarion amp?

Any recommended installers in Melbourne?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...