Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

so I've been receiving some PMs for the front pipes I've installed on my car.

I had some custom front pipes made as most of the front pipes I could find for sale were limited in diameter size (the biggest I could find were 2.75" turbo side, 3" dump side).

I've asked the fabricator to see if he could make some more and he's agreed to making more if there is any interest. He is very busy himself so he's asked me to take care of any interested parties.

so if you are interested shoot me a PM!

Here is a pic of the front pipes below:

frontpipes.jpg

As you can see they are nice and chunky. The turbo sides are 3" each and they merge into a 3.5" cat side so they are a fair bit bigger than most of the front pipes on the market. The dark colour also helps with keeping the guys in blue from asking questions.

will help a fair bit for flow if you have -9s, -5s or similar sized twins and are aiming for 300kw+

Sale price is $400

still very well priced compared to other fronts pipes I've seen.

Cheers

Umair

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/398921-gtr-3-to-35-front-pipes/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

guys getting a lot of interest for these front pipes...

I will get in touch with my guy tomorrow and get an estimated ETA

I'm pretty sure there is already one in stock so anyone is definitely up for buying one then pm me!

Cheers

Hey guys

just had a chat to my contact

he said he would like to keep the last one in stock as a base for the fabricator to work off so unfortunately I cant sell that one.

The ETA for completion is 3-4 weeks. If you would still like to proceed then please pm me so we can organise a deposit.

Alternatively you can txt me on <removed> .

Cheers

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • forgot to mention that when it does this it does not kill the engine, but I have not kept the pedal down long enough to let it, as I see no reason to beat up on it as its got to be something simple, small and dumb causing this.  And as soon as I let off pedal, the engine returns to its normal super smooth operation and rpms re-stabilize quickly, once below 4k. 
    • neither stumble or cut really seem to be an appropriate term....hard to explain its like a rev limiter but at 4k, but it violently shakes engine and entire vehicle as the rpms will not rise over 4k, even with slow acceleration. as soon as it hits 4k, it sounds like entire spark is lost entirely. plugs were 1.1 which I used as such, but later put in new plugs gapped down to .8 changed back after issue arose when I replaced the coils, still does it with either plug gap...damn and it was all running so good.
    • Oh how times have changed! I actually lean it out relative to my water/methanol injector duty cycle. The methanol adds a lot of fueling and you can then lean it out even more due to reduced knock. 
    • Yeah my thoughts are the same, a well thought out WMI setup, would be slightly ahead of just straight E85 and you're also chemically intercooling the charged air, dropping it even further. This is why you need to add so much more fuel as soon as you spray. I remember someone taking me through their set up before (Dennis, has a R33, lives around Cabramatta - no idea if he's still around on this forum). He would target AFR 10:1 on 98, then as WMI ramped on, AFR would lean back up to 11:1. Amazingly, he did this all through his PowerFC, a relay to cut power to his EBC solenoid if there was not enough line pressure on his WMI kit. And of course, if there wasn't any boost made above gate pressure, you wouldn't be accessing the load cells with heaps of timing for WMI. One downside to that rudimentary setup, once the WMI came on, the EBC would unleash the dragon, and of course all the timing. Tyres would fry lol.
    • Shimmed or shimless, still solid, no hydraulic pump up stuff.
×
×
  • Create New...