Jump to content
SAU Community

(Qld) Wrecking Whole R32 Minus Motor And Gearbox!r34 Parts Also!

nismokiller
 Share

Recommended Posts

nismokiller Enthusiast

nismokiller

Posted
Posted

Wrecking my drift car, as i am about to buy a new car so im wrecking it.

DMAX fiberglass bonnet with pins - $400ono

Front Guards- $120 ono

Nismo 2way LSD - $400ono

genuine nissan 32 gtst pods and skirts - $180ono

gtr rear bar - $100

R32 half cage 6 point 2" with 1 peice cross over pipe - $500

r32 tail lights $190 pair

R32 dash- $260

R34 front seats $200 each

R34 rear seats (clipped corners to suit roll cage) $150

R34 cluster- $400

r34 gtt boost gauge cluster set (OEM center bit) - $200

R32 mirrors- $50 each

R32 Boot lid- $100

R32 door Cards (good cond. with window switches ) - $ 200 ono for the pair

R32 doors - $150 each, $180 with glass

R32 head llamps- $150 each

r32 clear indicators-$120 for the pair

theres more parts that i have missed like carpet etc brake gear clutch gear

selling the whole rolling shell as is with all these parts for $4000 ono<<

nismokiller Enthusiast

nismokiller

Posted
  • Author
Posted

interested in this, what sort of condition is it in?

Nismo 2way LSD - $400ono

Diff is in good condition, changed oil 3 weeks prior to engine removal

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Cas issue

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Was that with the cas upside or correct way up?
    • nash47
      Cas issue

      By nash47 · Posted

      Did and sync timing with light 
    • MBS206
      Cas issue

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • MBS206
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By MBS206 · Posted

      You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
×
×
  • Create New...