Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R33 GTR COIL HARNESS, HKS DLI & HKS R33 GTR DLI HARNESS.

1. HKS DLI w/ Universal Harness

HKS Part No#: 43001-AK001

Perfect Condition, Not a Scratch on the DLI Box, Universal harness previously used.

Less than 1000kms use, one run in.

2. HKS R33 GTR Plug & Play Harness 

HKS Part No#: 4399-SN002

Brand New. 

3. R33 GTR Coil Harness

Nissan Part No#: 24079-24U10

Perfect Condition. 

Pics: We all know what they look like but available on request to genuinely interested persons. 

Asking $850 for the lot. 

Contact via PM

More info:

Obviously comes with harness to suit R33 GTR but can be mated up with the following cars using the universal harness. 

Upto 8 Outputs (Coilpacks).

Skyline - R32 GTR - BNR32

Skyline - R33 GTR - BCNR33

Silvia - PS13 (Red Top)

Silvia - S14 S1

Silvia - S14 S2

Impreza - GC8/GF8 Ver1-2

Impreza - GC8/GF8 Ver3-4

Impreza - GC8/GF8 Ver5-6

Supra JZA80 S1

Supra MKIII - JZA70

Skyline - R32 GTS-t - HCR32

Silvia - S13 (CA18DET)

EVO - CD9A

EVO II - CE9A

EVO III - CE9A

Mark II S2 - JZX100

Starlet - EP82

Starlet - EP91

Mark II S1 - JZX100

Fairlady - Z32

Supra JZA80-S2

Soarer - 2.5GT-T S1 - JZZ30

Soarer - 2.5GT-T S2 - JZZ30

Mark II - JZX90

Aristo - JZS147

Aristo - JZS161

Mark II - JZX81

Legacy - BD5 I

Legacy - BD5 II

Mark II - JZX110

GTO - Z16A

GTO - Z15A

THIS WILL NOT FIT;

Skyline - R33 GTS-t S2 - ECR33

Skyline - R33 GTS-t S1 - ECR33

Skyline - R34 GTR - BNR34

Skyline - R34 GTT - ER34

Stagea - 25t RS (~98+) - WGC34

Stagea - 25t RS Four (~98+) - WGNC34

Stagea - 25t RS Four (pre 98) - WGNC34

Stagea - 260RS - WGNC34

From what I can tell they are not made anymore (Well they are discontinued from Nengun) 

Here is a little description:

"The Twin Power ignition amplifier incorporates both the CDI and transistor method ignition to provide optimum spark duration and maximum voltage output, resulting in crisper throttle response and a smoother engine powerband. The CDI method, capacity discharge ignition, provides maximum voltage by transferring all stored energy in the capacitor to the ignition coil so that the ignition current can buildup quickly, thus making the Twin Power very effective in the higher revs where a normal spark would tend to diminish. This strong rapid spark prevents the high rpm ignition miss that reduces peak power. The transistorized method generates high voltage by using transistors to cut off current to the coil, thus allowing for a long energy discharge. This longer spark duration allows the Twin Power to improve lower RPM throttle response and torque. The combination of the CDI and the transistor method incorporates two distinct systems into one high performance unit, hence the designation of Twin Power. The Twin Power produces a spark output that is typically 1.5-2.5 stronger than of the stock ignition system and consumes about 35% less power input than other ignition amplifiers. 

The compact and attractive Twin power unit is constructed of durable anodized aluminum and sealed to prevent moisture corrosion. Universal wiring harnesses are included to aid in installation and mounting. Vehicle Specific wiring harnesses are also available for certain models for easier installation and to support installations that require complex integration.

Dimensions - All Twin Power Units, (except for DLI II), are 91mm (L) x 80mm(W) x 34.5mm (H) and weighs approximately 430g (~15.2oz)

Note: HKS Twin Power Units are not compatible with Non-Resistor Spark Plugs

Combination of transistor ignition type, which improves ignition at low rpm and CDI ignition, which improves ignition at high rpm increase ignition energy itself.

Latest vehicles even normal aspirated engines require spark plugs with higher heat range when intake and exhaust parts are upgraded. Twin Power enables strong spark to start engine and idling will be stable.

Cheers. 

Edited by krayzie32

All 3 items are SOLD thanks guys.

Wont be responding to anymore PM's regarding this item.

Edited by krayzie32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...