Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So i just bought myself a Series 2 gtst and for some reason even when my stock boost gauge is only hitting the first line above the 0 line it pops its guts out. This only happens before about 4-5000rpm. After that it seems fine... :/

Is there any specific thing that could be making this happen

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/400028-rb25det-boost-issue/
Share on other sites

+1 to boost leaks.

+1 to missfiring, all of them cause that issue. Change your plugs ( might as well gap the. At .8 while your replacing ) and just dble check airlines, cooler piping and check to make sure the previous owner actually has the right lines from actuator and turbo.

i have a turbosmart tee piece, r33 gtr sidemount, and a 3 inch system. Nothing major. I replumbed the controller from the actuator to the intake pipe myself with new vacuum line just to make sure. If i i turn the boost down it doesnt happen as bad. Ill try replacing the piping from the turbo right through.

Have just bought some bcpr6es plugs. gapped to .8 im putting them in this afternoon. should be helpful i hope :D

I have a similar issue to this, don't want to start a new thread about it though.

I bought my Skyline about a month and a half ago, drove like a dream. It had yellow jackets, FMIC, pod, cat back exhaust (punched cat). I put a JJR 3" bellmouth dump on it and a turbosmart boost tee. Drove nice on 11psi, then a few weeks ago i started it up and it was missing at 4500+ rpm.

So far I have replaced plugs, gapped to .8mm, running actuator pressure boost and cleaned the AFM. Still misfires, seems to happen more in 2nd and 3rd gear. It also has a leaking turbo-dump gasket, thinking the dump flange isn't straight as I put a genuine Nissan one on it

Anyone have any ideas what it could be? Running boost off the actuator pressure it still hits about 9psi, and I have checked the coil packs already, although one had a spring that had less tension than others.

I have a similar issue to this, don't want to start a new thread about it though.

I bought my Skyline about a month and a half ago, drove like a dream. It had yellow jackets, FMIC, pod, cat back exhaust (punched cat). I put a JJR 3" bellmouth dump on it and a turbosmart boost tee. Drove nice on 11psi, then a few weeks ago i started it up and it was missing at 4500+ rpm.

So far I have replaced plugs, gapped to .8mm, running actuator pressure boost and cleaned the AFM. Still misfires, seems to happen more in 2nd and 3rd gear. It also has a leaking turbo-dump gasket, thinking the dump flange isn't straight as I put a genuine Nissan one on it

Anyone have any ideas what it could be? Running boost off the actuator pressure it still hits about 9psi, and I have checked the coil packs already, although one had a spring that had less tension than others.

Its ur coilpacks

If I increase my boost, will it lean my mixture?

Possibly. Depends how much boost and if ur tune has been done on higher boost.

The yellow jackets fail All the time. If u have any stock coil packs that work u can diagnose which one is the issue.

yeah dan, i might drop into the dyno and get it done right. get it tuned to 12psi and leave it. im even planning on selling the blitz kit that i have on the car and just fitting the stock pipe back in and using the stock bov. i like the flutter sound better anyway :D

Just thought id update,

got my splitfire coilpacks today, fitted em, misfire gone. I now am of the opinion that Yellow Jackets are cheap for a reason (they are shit). A guy at Just Jap told me the other week that they got their JJR Coil Packs from the same factory and they ended up binning them rather than selling em cause they had so many fail.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Slow when hot could also be because its getting more dynamic compression, OR things are getting a bit tighter once it is all expanded. If it were an earthing issue, typically I'd expect you to have it have issues all the time. Unless it's really a combination of both things. Where the higher compression, and things being a bit tighter, is giving that bit of extra load and you do need a slight clean up on the cables/connections.
    • Yeah, this is one of the most annoying things about nissan part numbers... I've got an unrelated example... Image is of the AT output shaft ~ they have the same part#, but clearly the shaft on the left is beefier design to that on the right ...the difference (essentially) is the 'lighter' shaft on the right, is for engines up to RB25DE (this includes RB20 variants) : the shaft on the left is for RB25/26DET(T)....are they interchangeable? Yes...but obviously one shaft is going to be stronger than the other...and, the lighter shaft is around USD115, but the heavier shaft closer to USD150...same part#... ...epc-data usually tells a tale ~ the amayama listing for 39100-23U60 has a note "Longest side is between 60 and 105 cm" ; no such info is there for 39100-23U70 ...and given the great disparity in price between the 2 parts, it makes me at least curious (to the point of caution) where the 'extra money' went? ...ie; these 2 parts have a cost difference that (to myself at least) isn't explained by 'plastic boot'...ie; with amayama there's AUD700 price difference ...plastic versus rubber?...I'm not seeing it like that...and 60cm ~ 105cm...??...that's a huge disparity....something hinky going on here... I'd try searching by VIN, not model... /2cents
    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
    • One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
    • I ordered a GSP Front R/H Axle from here - https://justjap.com/products/gsp-premium-front-driveshaft-r-h-nissan-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-stagea-4wd#description It lasted around a year before one of the boots blew out. I'm lowered, but I have GKTech roll center adjusters. One year seems a little premature. I think I'm going to spend the extra money on an OEM cv axle this time. This website - https://tfaspeed.com/collections/nissan-stagea-wgnc34-x-four-parts/products/nissan-stagea-awc34-260rs-rb26-right-front-axle-drive-assembly Makes it sound like the readily available OEM CV axle will only fit 11.1999 Stagea and up (mine is a 2.1997 S1). The JustJap listing didn't mention any years or anything for the GSP axle. Amayama shows '11.1999' and up as well for that part number. As well as 'plastic boot type'. See attached picture. So I guess my question is, does that axle (39100-23U60) really only fit S2 Stagea? It's the front driver side. If it does, I'd love to buy that instead of rolling the dice on another GSP. I've found that OEM one cheaper here: https://www.partsfornissans.com/oem-parts/nismo-jdm-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-r32-gts4-right-front-axle-3910023u60 and here https://www.nissanparts.cc/oem-parts/nismo-shaft-ft-drive-3910023u60 Just a little confused because the JapSpeed listing for the GSP front driver axle doesn't mention any specific years or anything and it fit my S1 Stagea fine. So will 39100-23U60 fit my S1 Stagea even though technically it says '11.1999' and up? What would have changed? Thanks.  
×
×
  • Create New...