Jump to content
SAU Community

Has anyone re-trimmed the interior fascia?

MarkG

By MarkG,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

MLCrisis Proficient

MLCrisis

Posted
Posted

Hi. These guys offer a selection of kits. Seem to be the same ones as UAS, but they have a wider range. Even though the owner is more into Soarers, they still seem to know what they are talking about. Check 'em out at: http://www.importscene.com.au/category20_1.htm

The Series I kits have the main centre vents, heater and stereo surround, but the Series II kits don't. I don't know if the Series I centre vent bit will fit the Series II (looks like it to me, but I haven't been in a Series I).

Cheers.

GWP021 Veteran

GWP021

Posted
Posted

I can do it myself but problem is I don't have a workshop to do it. And doing it in an open space at my place means while paint is drying dust/dirt particles could landed on the surface and spoil the result. I had this done on my speedo surround, because it was a small part, as soon as I spray it I took it inside and cover it with a box. Dash facia is a different story as it's way too large to find a box to fit to cover it. So I'm sticking with black on mine, but silver would be nice

i jus put the dash an s#@$ on a table an cover with plastic sheet ( held up so dont touch paint) afta i painted didn have any real probs with dust an stuff other tham gove box learned my lesson afta that

rs73 Grand Master

rs73

Posted
Posted
i jus put the dash an s#@$ on a table an cover with plastic sheet ( held up so dont touch paint) afta i painted didn have any real probs with dust an stuff other tham gove box learned my lesson afta that

Good for you if you can do that. Sadly, that is still impossible for me.

The only place big enough for a table is in my living room and there's

no way I'm gonna do some spray painting in there. All the paint fume

makes the room smells like sh1t afterwards. Believe me I tried before and

I learnt my lesson. Smell like paint for days even with windows opened for days.

I live in a flat and it's either painting in my living room or my balcony outside. I choose the balcony as I have no garage or shed, only car spot side by side with other neighbours on a shared open space. And I can't do it in the car park as the

paint fume will definitely flew over blown by the wind and may stain my neighbour's car. Each car here is parked next to each other about 50-60cm

apart only. I don't wanna be sued for any paintwork damage on their car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...