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Anyone can buy direct from hollinger

Phone then up, order the ratios you want, pay a deposit and wait in the 8week line.

They turned one out for me in 5 weeks not long ago.

Better off buying a new one as there is a revised position indicator which is far more reliable than the old ones, you know the condition it's in and they offer a really good service rate if you deal with them direct.

Lee is very helpful just call up and explain what you want.

19k plus gst.

Holinger have a fixed price. Doesn't matter how many you buy, in the trade or not that's the price

You will also require a clutch (original thrust bearing and fork can be used) fabricated gear box mount for it (holinger uses an ear type locator)

Ignition cut gear knob. Don't buy the hinger click type selector. Buy a strain gauge locally made shifter they are widely used in supercars and work far better.

Nissan tail shaft will work but we usually make a solid shaft.

Budget a transfer case rebuild while it's off.

Bellhousing bolts are also different and hollinger don't supply the correct length.

Bolts that hold the transfer case to the gearbox case are also shorter.

There is alot of small things that are different

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    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
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    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
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