Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Everybody! We will be running an Open (Free for all) Dyno Day on the 29th of May! This will be an ideal event to test out how much power your car actually has, regardless of its stage of modification, and regardless what car it is! We would like to thank Dominic @ Pro-Tek Automotive and Jason @ Dynamic Test Systems for this opportunity to run our much-awaited dyno day.

All classes are welcomed, details below.

Exclusive Club Dyno Day - http://exclusive-auto.net/

Date: Saturday 29th May

Time: Starting at 9AM for the early birds who want to get their power runs first, running till 5PM (depending when there are no more cars to dyno).

Location:Pro-Tek Automotive on Dundas St in Thornbury (Melway Ref to be posted up, opposite Technik Tuning)

Cost:$30 for 2-3 power runs including dyno print out (depending on how busy it is)

Other: BBQ, Screen display for public

About the Dyno

Now, a bit about the dyno .. This dyno is constructed by Dynamic Test Systems, and is a brand new 4WD Dyno. This means that any FWD, RWD, 4WD car is able to be dynoed without a problem. I've been told that these dynos are very accurate, to within 1kw, after being compared to the same stock car over different parts of the world. The Dyno is able to handle up to 600kw at the wheels, and 1800nm of torque. It suits a wheelbase of between 2250mm and 3220mm. The information provided will include: Power (flywheel), Power (wheels), Torque, Speed, RPM, Air and Aux Temp, Lambda and MAP. It is also able to show you the torque split that your car is providing on the rollers. IMPORTANT NOTE: The Dyno is an 'In-Ground' Dyno, meaning there are no ramps to drive up onto. So all the low cars are able to be dynoed without a problem (Note that not all variables may be able to be dynoed on the day).

In addition, the dyno operator is able to (and will) perform a drivetrain loss test (which involves ramping up to 100km/h and coasting down twice, once a free roll and another with the roller brakes on) which allows the calculation of how much drivetrain loss, through the wheel (weight, size), diff, bearings, gearbox, clutch, etc to give you an accurate flywheel figure. The flywheel figure is the figure that we will be giving trophies out on, so there's no need to guess on 4WD, FWD, RWD power figures based on arbitrary percentages (which are generally very innacurate). In addition, this also eliminates the variation in power and torque by using different gear ratios (assuming you can reach full boost).

Who is welcome?

We welcome all clubs and people with all cars to put their cars on their dyno, regardless of where they're from, modifications, type of car, etc. We also encourage people who will be attending our Heathcote drag day coming up a few weeks after to dyno their cars in order to test how much power they have. In addition, everybody is welcome to come and spectate (spectators are free) and enjoy the environment (and the beautiful smell of oil and petrol). Note that if bookings are full, club members will get priority (for this event).

How do these trophies work?

There will be the following classes for our Dyno Days:

* 4-Cyl Naturally Aspirated

* 6-Cyl Naturally Aspirated

* 8-Cyl Naturally Aspirated

* 4-Cyl Forced Induction (Includes supercharge, turbocharged and nitrous oxide)

* 6-Cyl Forced Induction

* 8-Cyl Forced Induction

Note that the power figures used in these classes are flywheel figures, and as such there are no requirements for cars to be specifically FWD, RWD or 4WD. Prizes will be given out at the end of a 3 month period, over an average span of 3 dyno days (adjustable according to how popular it is). This means that hopefully nobody will miss out to have the chance for their car to be dynoed. [Next: April-Jun inc. 2004]

What else will there be on the day?

One of the aims is to make this day as fun and enjoyable as possible, and try to make everybody as comfortable as possible! There will be an LCD monitor specifically to display the results as they are being run, for the crowd's benefit, as well as a BBQ with drinks provided for everybody who is hungry.

Anything else?

A few notes:

* A booking is required to run your car, it is very unlikely that we will be able to fit in people who turn up on the day wishing to have their cars dynoed. Please use the contact details specified above to make your booking. Note that pre-payment is required to ensure everybody sticks to schedule.

This will be our first of many Club Dyno Day's and we want to make them as successful and enjoyable as possible! Feedback to improve these and other events is always welcome :)

If you are interested and wish to register your car in this, please e-mail [email protected] or PM for more information. Alternatively, contact me on IRC (#exclusive on Austnet), ICQ (13101686) or MSN ([email protected]) for more information.

Full details can be found here : http://www.exclusive-auto.net/forum/viewto...opic.php?t=1852

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/40192-29may-exclusive-club-dyno-day/
Share on other sites

jesus christ!

I certainly cant compain about not enough detail in this thread.

Maybe i can complain there is too much :)

Good work. Very comprehensive.

I'd like to see a dyno actually calculate drivetrain loss accurately (as they cant)

but meh.

Good luck. Lots of dyno days come up lately!

And for the rest of you whores... STAY OUT OF THE EVENTS THREADS :(

- ash

Unfortunately, all spots are currently filled for this dyno day. If you are interested in having your car dynoed, please e-mail the above address as per normal and you will be placed on the waiting list for this event, to be notified if there are places available closer to the date of the dyno. People on the waiting list will also have first priority/choice at our next dyno day, which will be coming up soon.

And of course, all spectators are welcome on the day!

  • 3 weeks later...

All set for a big day today! We may be able to get through more cars than expected, so there are possibly dyno spots for extra cars towards the middle and end of the day, if you want to check what the availability is like for spots, please contact me directly on 041 28 28 222.

Note there will be a BBQ running so food and drinks are available!

Great day, good turnout, a nice mix of cars and everything running smoothly :)

More discussion on this event is occuring here (including full results, photos and movies soon):

http://www.exclusive-auto.net/forum/viewto...opic.php?t=2375

Administrators please lock this thread, thanks ...

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
×
×
  • Create New...