Jump to content
SAU Community

Recently Bought My First Skyline...and Now The Mod Bug Is Taking Hold...


Recommended Posts

hey guys, i recently bought myself a 1993 R33 series 1? skyline with fairly high KMs 150,000km and as far as i know its stock as a rock with little extras like a exhaust tip apparantly a R34 intercooler? (all i can see is like 2 intercoolers right next to each other and not a FMIC so i think thats what he means..)

when i looked at the engine i noticed the throttle body sensor? on top of the engine was unplugged but they had rewired it ? does anybody know why they would have done this? and my o2 sensor is unplugged and the loom ends are slightly burned from the turbo/cracked but i think i could still plug them in, should i try this? its also missing the front radiator fan which bolts on the front of your radiator but im not sure if i need this since i have the clutch fan plus the "r34" intercooler? correct me if im wrong please...new suspension etc is a given on that year of a model so im fairly sure that needs doing too...

so basically ive been reading up as much as i can on what to do and that and i understand i need new injectors etc before i go putting in a top of the line turbo but what would you guys recommend me doing first so i can safely go ahead and upgrade these things without my engine blowing up? should i get a rebuild first?

i found a bloke whos selling a rb25det which hes done work to for 2800 and im thinking rather than rebuild a engine should i buy a engine which was already being rebuilt and then finish it off? it comes with all parts just needs the plenums etc bolted on and manifolds....then i will need obviously a new ECU/turbo set up..

would that be the cheaper choice in the long run? buy a worked on engine that hasnt been dropped in a car yet? or rebuild as i go along....

in the end i want a 33 which will be reliable, with a bit of guts behind it so i know it will last given im not a dickhead in it...

if any pics of the engine bay are needed just let me know and obviously im a bit of a noob to cars so yeah give me a break lol

This is the engine i was thinking of buying rather than rebuilding my current one

pretty good condition, but to get it up to really good condition i had the head reco'd at the cost of around $600 which included new inlet valve guides and stem seals, the exhaust guides had already been done, while the head was apart i also cleaned up the unnecessary lumps in the exhaust ports.

It all went back together with the following parts:

Performance Springs valve springs and retainers - $300

Camtech 272 Duration, 9mm lift cams - $1200

Tomei adjustable Cam Gears - $300 (not 100% sure i want to sell the cam gears yet)

ARP Head Studs - $150

New Durapro VRS Gasket Kit - $400

ACL Race Series big end bearings - $70

Also to go with this engine is a non-genuine Greddy Front facing plenum which i have gasket matched the runners to the head myself (needed doing really badly), and i have a billet fuel rail kit for this which allows the use of top feed injectors.

Together these cost around $500 and for the right price i can include some GTR Injectors aswell.

It also has a second hand Stainless highmount turbo manifold and Turbosmart 38mm Gate if needed, valued at around $500 for both items together.

As the engine sits it is currently a bare long motor, ready to have manifolds and accessories bolted on and put into use.

Edited by Razon
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jokes, I read the whole thing.

I would say before thinking about new injectors you should look at getting those few issues sorted first. Get yourself a replacement thermo fan, get that sensor and that plug sorted. Then should service the beast, oil, filters, check belts etc. Then get a comp test done, will give an indication as to the condition of the engine, no need to buy a new one if the current one is okay, the RB25s are pretty robust. Then you can start looking at exhaust and a little more boost as well as getting those suspension niggles sorted and go from there, will be able to boost it a safely with the stock turbo, injectors better exhaust. There is a large mods market for the R33, both new and used, so yeah, should be able to get some nice parts cheap.

Send us some picks of that plug and the sensor and the intercooler situation.

Edited by maxima
Link to comment
Share on other sites

hahaha great wall of text :P okay so there would be no point in buying a new engine considering mine could have a bit left in her? and yeah ill definately get her serviced soon oils changed etc

ive got a few pictures already of the sensors but ill take some now and hopefully they wont be too dark...this first pictures of the o2 sensor its plastic clip part is just a bit burnt/cracked im guessing from the turbo so it could possibly still work if i plugged it together and just taped it up, how would i know if its going to root my car being plugged back in? why would they unplug it in the first place lol..

thermo fan, do they just plug into both looms on the front of the intercooler? or are you ment to have 2 fans one for each loom?

ill get a photo of the throttle position sensor being rewired and a intercooler uploaded soon..

post-93031-0-30989000-1339226268_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

heres the throttle sensor picture, if you look closely its apparantly been rewired? why would someone do that when the plug is directly above it? post-93031-0-26948300-1339227262_thumb.jpg

its really hard to show you what i sort of mean with the radiator but there seems to be a larger radiator at the back of the black front one? is that just normal in skylines? ive also noticed though they moved the air conditioning tank? (i think thats what it is lol my bad if not) the picture doesnt really show much but follow the A/C tank back and you'll see the front smaller radiator...

post-93031-0-66718400-1339227419_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, smash it in the Forced Induction section.

I would help you out more but I have no experience with turbo motors. I drive an old Rover 216s, it's a nice car, good on fuel but I think it is going to need some maintenance soon and I think it is going to cost a whole bunch of cash because my friend Doreen had to buy a water pump for her fathers MG and she said it was very expensive but she didn't say how expensive so I don't really know what she considers expensive because she has to borrow her fathers car to drive everywhere which makes me think she is poor because she doesn't have her own car.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, smash it in the Forced Induction section.

I would help you out more but I have no experience with turbo motors. I drive an old Rover 216s, it's a nice car, good on fuel but I think it is going to need some maintenance soon and I think it is going to cost a whole bunch of cash because my friend Doreen had to buy a water pump for her fathers MG and she said it was very expensive but she didn't say how expensive so I don't really know what she considers expensive because she has to borrow her fathers car to drive everywhere which makes me think she is poor because she doesn't have her own car.

thanks mate, have it posted in general maintence but should have gone forced induction >.<

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi I wanted to see if anyone knows the name of the OEM R32 rims because I can't find it anywhere
    • Gates is saying the same thing. They think I have the right bag with the wrong hose in it... I bought it off amazon, I'm thinking someone pulled a good old swapparoo and returned normal hose. Well looks like she's coming back out... Not very lucky with this hose lol. 
    • Chatting one someone recently at racing them at QR. They say you can't take turn 2 in one flat stick in 4th. They don't have the torque to pull them selves straight, so make sure you're ringing it's neck out in 3rd instead
    • Many years ago when I bought my FG XR6T, it came with bald tyres on the back (think pretty much smooth for most of the tread) and brand new Kinforest cheap shit tyres on the front. In the rain, I had more grip in the bald ass tyres on the back, than the brand new Kinforest. To the point you couldn't drive off at a set of lights and turn the corner. Car would only go straight. Very quickly all four tyres were replaced.   A few years back on a VF SV6 I had, it came with brand new chineesium tyres. In the wet at 90kmh, old 1990s tray back tradie utes could corner faster than me. There was one corner on a freeway, in a 90 zone, it's not even marked to reduce speed for those curve, it's not a hard corner, I could put the LandCruiser on mud tyres through with ease (it would easily do the corner in the wet I reckon at 120kmh), the VF however couldn't get through it at 80, as it would want to slide out.   Cheap tyres aren't worth the risk. I like decent brakes, and decent grip.
    • It shouldn't swell like that, (just looked it up) it should say SAE J30R10  
×
×
  • Create New...