Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I posted this topic on G35 driver and i thought i'd post it here too, if anyone has done the bolt replacement in the lower rear control arm PLEASE let me know your help would be greatly appreciated.

Here is the post on G35Driver -

Okay so i have a 2003 Nissan Skyline V35 350GT Coupe, as most of you would know it's the equivalent of the G35 Coupe.

I purchased the car a few months ago privately, at the time i was told of the problem but was assured it was a minor issue and i even got a full inspection from a mechanic who confirmed it was nothing to worry about for a while.

3 Months on and the problem is getting worse. What's happening is when i turn, i hear a creaking noise in the front left suspension (which i have confirmed is the problem as there is a stripped bolt right through the lower rear control arm) and it's driving me insane. The roads are VERY bad where i live, so this problem is getting worse quick and i need it resolved ASAP.

So now i am going to Nissan first thing Monday to find out the order number for the bolt and do it from home, i just wanted to know if anyone has replaced this bolt before and could help me out.

Thank you!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/402142-suspension-issues-please-help/
Share on other sites

Sorry, this is a bit confusing- is it the front suspension, or the rear?

Hope you sit down when Nissan tell you the price, if its what I'm thinking it is. Get a Picture- tells 1000 words as they say.

Search for superpro bushes. they do a range for V35s now, and should be able to get the suspension bush. Its genreally not a "bolt" thats an issue, its the rubber around it.

It's confusing for me too, when i originally took it to Nissan the mechanic was very confusing and sent me to the panel beaters to get it done (i went there and the guy laughed at the dick head mechanic for sending me to him)

I'm near 100% sure it's the bolt itself, the bottom of it is completely stripped but it's very hard to see up there as I've only got a jack.

Ok, so I had a quick look on mine. That's the bit that goes up and supports the bottom of the shock. I'm not sure if you could press that bolt out or if it's in there permanently.

If it was mine, I'd just get a wrecker part off z33 or v35, just the whole bit. But by all means speak to Nissan if that's your plan. Make sure the rubber bush hasn't flogged out since its been moving round.

There are a few bushes that flog out on these cars, and most people don't realise.

Ok, so I had a quick look on mine. That's the bit that goes up and supports the bottom of the shock. I'm not sure if you could press that bolt out or if it's in there permanently.

If it was mine, I'd just get a wrecker part off z33 or v35, just the whole bit. But by all means speak to Nissan if that's your plan. Make sure the rubber bush hasn't flogged out since its been moving round.

There are a few bushes that flog out on these cars, and most people don't realise.

Thanks for your help man, if Nissan decide to charge me an arm and a leg for the part then i'll go down that track. Yeah when i originally bought the car with the RACQ inspection the inspector commented that all bushes were fine.

If its the bolt that's stripped, then youll need the replacement. But just so you know, that bush is know for getting destroyed as well. Might be a bush issue, might be a stripped thread issue. Just get under there and find out. I reckon 50% or more cars are driving round with the bush not 100%.

It's not the bolt in the hub yeah, it's the other end that bolts to the rail?

At least you have pin pointed it, good luck mate.

Yeah that's the plan for today get under it and double check. In that link you gave me with the diagram, where it has the part #15 it's actually the "king pin" bolt on the other end that's the problem. Yeah i agree i have heard that before bushes getting worn easily apparently there's some high quality ones that can last 100,000KM.

As I said earlier - superpro for the bushes

And you can get improved castor bushes for better handling :yes:

But unless you have a press, its not a diy.

I bet someone has gone to replace the bush, and through f it, too hard, but it back on and cross threaded the bolt.

I can get access to one so i should be sweet. Yeah i brought it up with the previous owner last night and he claimed to have no idea but you never know.. I'll see how i go with Nissan, just realised tomorrows a public holiday and i'm back to work Tuesday so it won't be done for ages f**k.

Nissan don't sell many of the bushes or links separate - the lower control arm itself (no. 10 on the pic) is a consumable part, and they do not sell the shocker bush or main bush - you have to buy a whole arm (rrp $500)! I bought some Nolathane bushes and pressed them in last week (see photo below). When I pulled the lower control arm off I realised that the lower ball joints are stuffed too - and guess what? Nissan don't sell them either - they only sell the whole Number 1 on the pic assembly at $1k a pop. Luckily I found some ball joints online for $60 per pair delivered.

For the record, by my memory (given had the car apart last week) our 2 wheel drive V35s don't have that No. 15 part! Maybe I am wrong though.

I am willing to bet that your noise is either the lower control arm bushes or your ball joints.

post-669-0-53987500-1339395562_thumb.jpg

post-669-0-42416800-1339395564_thumb.jpg

And reading through your post again, I think you might be talking about the sway bar end link where it bolts onto the lower control arm. To fit these properly you need to lower the car onto bricks or something to lift up the upper control arm to the sway bar end link, to make the holes line up. If you just try to screw the bolt through without it being lined up perfectly, you shave off the bolt thread. This is what it sounds like has been done to yours. Luckily these are a common part between pretty much every Nissan, and are cheap. I replaced mine a while back on my R34 and they cost stuff all - maybe $50 a pair from memory.

For the record, by my memory (given had the car apart last week) our 2 wheel drive V35s don't have that No. 15 part! Maybe I am wrong though.

Memory might be a bit hazy then - its there on your car.We came to the conclusion that the stripped bolt was the one in the Chassis (thats what OP confirmed) at the rear end of #15.If that is the cause of his clonk/squeak - I'm not that confident. There are a lot of things under there that can squeak! And I bet more than one set of bushes are history, after him saying that he drives on very rough roads.

Thankyou for your replies helping me get to the bottom of this, i took some photo's today of the bolt that needs replacing. I've checked ball joints they're all good.

My big issue is that the top of the bolt is tucked away behind the panel you can see in the first image, making it impossible to get to without removing the panels. This is becoming a really f**king annoying drama that no one in my town seems to know how to fix.

2f07imd.jpg

zlrbs4.jpg

  • 1 month later...

Been reading through all these replies again, it's the lower control arm bushes that are farked. The compression rod bushes are worn too. I've ordered the comp rod bushes off ebay for $25 and im about to buy the lower rear control arm bushes for both left and right suspension. Now after changing all 3 of these bushes i should be sweet, oh and knock that stripped bolt out and replace it.

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...