Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

they be fine, got 12 rims at home with tyres so im not lacking rubber atm :P

probably wont have them done for sunday which sucks, rather not be forking out for another wheel alignment when im gunna have to do it again when coilovers come

Hmmm not sure, if i dont have the gearbox out that will be priority i think........... Depends how i go tomorrow night with moving cars around. I need to tow the rodeo out and put it in the right bay, take mine from the left bay and put it in the center bay (so i have 2 car spaces to pull stuff apart) and then we can service yours in the left bay.......... Freakin musical sheds!

Sorry Martin, dobbed you in........ Hope you dont mind............

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/407632-tommy-kaira-25r/page__fromsearch__1

PS - If you do mind, COME AT ME BRO

zLS6X.jpg

Sorry Martin, dobbed you in........ Hope you dont mind............

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/407632-tommy-kaira-25r/page__fromsearch__1

PS - If you do mind, COME AT ME BRO

zLS6X.jpg

Fffffffffffuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu

Nah it's all good man

Replied to thread

Haha well i thought if anyone was going to be a guru it was going to be you............

Dunno bout being a guru

Someone asked me at the Charlestown meet

Them. Is it a real Tommy

Me. I suppose so how do you tell

Them. It will have a build plate on it somewhere

Me. Shrugs shoulders

Even if mine is a fake I still love it and wouldn't change except maybe for an R35

mat gunna do oil,filter,coolant tonight

makes it less hassle for you :)

got no problem doing them, never done my belts but guess ill learn haha

just dont over tighten right?

also probably wont get to do spark plugs dont have a socket long enough :(

Have you bled cooling systems before etc? If not, dont touch :)

Oil and filter is easy enough, just make sure the old filter seal comes off.

Belts are easy, and yeah do NOT overtighten them.... Make sure they have some deflection, if they are not freyed or too worn you can leave them for later too (up to you)....

Will make life easier in the shed of broken cars at the moment lolz :P

Exactly. i like martin's version.

Yep!

Subtle

Sexy

Smooth

And he has a nice car.................................. Wait.................................... Wha

Lu4Q6.png

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...