Jump to content
SAU Community

Brand New R34 Gtt Xenon Headlights (Pair) Unused $1800

webber
 Share

Recommended Posts

webber Proficient

webber

Posted
Posted

I have a set of R34 Headlights that i am looking to sell;

1 x Set Brand New R34 GTT Xenon headlights including Ballast Etc. $1800 for the Pair Complete

These are S2 R34 (2000 on) and have only got the one 4 pin plug (unlike the earlier ones which also had a 3 pin plug for the light beam leveller switch found on dash near steering wheel). These still fit Earlier models but can't use the leveller switch Obviously! (most switches were removed at compliance anyway).

I brought these incorrectly for a S1 a couple of years back for $3600,

Was going to include them in the sale of my Silver R34 Coupe, but buyer didn't want them to get the car cheaper. so i think $1800 is fair.

They are brand new in box with all wires & Ballast etc.

I will take pics of these later today, They are new what more can be said. The ultimate upgrade to make your 34 look mint!

Will sell without Ballasts & Globe for $1500.

Priced to sell, Really not interested in going lower at this stage. I understand that R34 popularity is dropping off, hence the realistic price. This is the price of one headlight new from Nissan. So grab a bargain.

Pm for more info or mobile number.

webber Proficient

webber

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well i will take some pics very shortly and you can decide. I have honestly never sat a set beside each other before to compare. I just don't want to mis-represent them in any way.

Cheers

webber Proficient

webber

Posted
  • Author
Posted

post-12420-0-65887200-1341294712_thumb.jpgpost-12420-0-79120600-1341294741_thumb.jpgpost-12420-0-30903800-1341294767_thumb.jpgpost-12420-0-56870300-1341294796_thumb.jpgpost-12420-0-98274200-1341294823_thumb.jpgpost-12420-0-92590500-1341294842_thumb.jpg

Ok i am not a dang-fangled photographer and my partner only has a DSLR. So i will get her to take some decent ones tonight. As for difference you can see in the picture of the rear of the light, there is only the single 4 pin sq. plug. There is no 3 pin plug in the light housing body. As far as i can tell that is the only difference; as stated above that is for the light beam angle/level adjustment.

Seeing as these will fit GTR these are a VERY CHEAP upgrade for your $50K+ Vehicle to make it look pristine.

Cheers Webber

webber Proficient

webber

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Had a few private offers guys, at this stage $1800 is what i am comfortable with.

Going from the interest these won't be for sale very long.

:D

Ideal way to spend your Tax return!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • GTSBoy
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Could be correct. Meter might be that far out. Compare against a known 5 ohm 1% resistor.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap.  (edit: I went out and did it right now, the line I had chosen did appear to have no vacuum on it, it used to go to the front of the intake, I've now completely blocked that one off at the bracket that holds several vacuum lines by the firewall.  I T'd into the vacuum line that goes from that bracket to the vacuum pump at the front of the car, but no change in the MAP readings).  Using the new vacuum line that has obvious vacuum on the hose, im still only getting readings between -6.0 and -5.2.  I'm wondering why the ECU was detecting -5.3 when nothing was connected to the MAP nipple and ECU MAP selected as the source. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
×
×
  • Create New...