Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Sorry - 5mm.

You have an adjustment problem. There is about 60mm of travel in the slave. you need to be able to force the piston/pushrod back inside. It should push back in with very minimal effort. If it cannot, your clutch pedal is overadjusted. Get someone to wind the pushrod looser while someone else pushes against the slave pushrod. As soon as the piston can push back inside the slave, leave your adjusment there. If you are still having problems after that, you might have a master cylinder pushrod length issue or if you used the old pushrod on the new master cylinder sometimes the ball section on the pushrod from the factory master is larger than the cup section in the back of the master cylinder piston so the old pushrod holds the piston forward by a mm or so. This is all it takes to block the recovery port in the master and prevent back filling into the cylinder. If you used the old pushrod on the new master, I'd check that before adjusting the pushrod any further.

You have an adjustment problem. There is about 60mm of travel in the slave. you need to be able to force the piston/pushrod back inside. It should push back in with very minimal effort. If it cannot, your clutch pedal is overadjusted. Get someone to wind the pushrod looser while someone else pushes against the slave pushrod. As soon as the piston can push back inside the slave, leave your adjusment there. If you are still having problems after that, you might have a master cylinder pushrod length issue or if you used the old pushrod on the new master cylinder sometimes the ball section on the pushrod from the factory master is larger than the cup section in the back of the master cylinder piston so the old pushrod holds the piston forward by a mm or so. This is all it takes to block the recovery port in the master and prevent back filling into the cylinder. If you used the old pushrod on the new master, I'd check that before adjusting the pushrod any further.

Thanks. I'll give that a shot tomorrow night.

I bought the master cylinder from Kudos Motorsport as per the link (http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/nissan-clutch-master-cylinder-genuine-nissan-skyline-r32-gtr-r33-gtr-r34-gtr-rb26dett-p-384.html)

By pushrod, do you mean the rod inside the master cylinder booster (the adjustable one) or the gold push rod in the picture of the master cylinder in that link?

Thanks

Thanks. I'll give that a shot tomorrow night.

I bought the master cylinder from Kudos Motorsport as per the link (http://www.kudosmoto...dett-p-384.html)

By pushrod, do you mean the rod inside the master cylinder booster (the adjustable one) or the gold push rod in the picture of the master cylinder in that link?

Thanks

Sorry I forgot you had a GTR. Disregard the ball on the pushrod comment - that is for GTST's only. It has the booster which you can't really go wrong with (unless you pulled the booster pin out)

Sorry I forgot you had a GTR. Disregard the ball on the pushrod comment - that is for GTST's only. It has the booster which you can't really go wrong with (unless you pulled the booster pin out)

All good. Booster pin was untouched. Simply replaced the master cylinder with a new one and installed it. Gravity bled the system, then bled by pumping the clutch and then gravity bled again.

Then had the same issue - Adjusted inside the cabin, I will take a photo of how far up it is adjusted tonight.

Edited by ls128

I have noticed that the peddle comes up more after i have been driveing for a bit and the clutch warms up. I should say too that it is fitted with a extreme extra heavy duty button clutch and presure plate and 10lbs chrome molly flywheel.

I will be changing the length of the push rodd to the master cylinder as the one on the slave is fixed length.

Also i have noticed that the stroke length of the peddle is only about 20mm i put this down to the face that it is adjusted incorrectly.

@ LCXU105 - Oh you meant you push the pedal down and it's only hard for 20mm of pedal travel?

I thought you were referring to the slave cylinder which is what we were talking about

If the clutch is bled and adjusted correctly then the only other thing that can cause it to pull the car forward when you start it in gear with the clutch down is if the clutch plate is bent (usually from improper installation by people on the ground hanging the box off the back of the engine for too long)

No m8 you have it wrong. car is not moveing foward at all and i was saying that the slave cyl rod can be pushed in 20mm when not in use and the peddle is hard at the top of the stroke for only 20mm of travel and clutch is fully ingaged. will be adjusting the rod on the master cyl so it is a little further down on the peddle stroke so i know it is not putting presure on the clutch.

No m8 you have it wrong. car is not moveing foward at all and i was saying that the slave cyl rod can be pushed in 20mm when not in use and the peddle is hard at the top of the stroke for only 20mm of travel and clutch is fully ingaged. will be adjusting the rod on the master cyl so it is a little further down on the peddle stroke so i know it is not putting presure on the clutch.

The first two lines were for you.

The second two were for LS128

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, i’m making a rb25det coil loom for Vag short coil. Can anybody tell me which Ecu signal wire belong to coil number 1 and 2,3,4,5,6? The connecting switch in above pic is 8 wire i think white is for +12v and black for earth.
    • Was there ever a model of the Stagea m35 that didnt have a badge on the grill? I thought I saw that somewhere, some aero edition or something? I cant find it again? davemoto
    • Its a 2002 vr-x four VQ25DET, silver. Coil overs, lowered, polished alloys and sport exhaust. Bit of a project, was sitting in a shed for a while but runs and drives great.
    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
×
×
  • Create New...