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Weds shocki 18x11-10 and 18x9.5 +5 (1 of the front has small buckle on inner) $2000firm an extra $180 to fix buckle

fabouls expands 18x11-13 with new 235/45 rotallas $1500

work (not sure on name but drift squid has a set so there good) 18x11-13 with new 235/45 rotallas $1500

Nitto Built R34 NUR RB26

This was a brand new n1 engine that I just built lucky if the engine has done 1500ks since new and now the new nitto rebuild has just been run in.

N1 block, head, crank

Nitto JE forged pistons

Nitto I beams

Nitto mls head gasket

Nitto oil pump

ACL race bearings

ARP studs

Supertech stage 3 valve springs

kelford 272/272 cams

OS giken cam gears

genuine nissan timing belt

Ross tuff bond harmonic balancer

extra oil drain in back of the head

modified rear sump conversion with tomei baffel kit

dash fittings on rocker covers, oil drain, heater lines

tomei oil cap

NUR coil pack cover

Motor was built by mrc dyno and nitto recomended duncon foster to do machine work..

This motor will be awesome for a gtr that wants to push good numbers through it and start with a new motor, not one that had 100ks then rebuilt.

any info ring me. Have all recipts

$15000 pretty soild on price, this is half price of what it cost.

GTX3076 with .82 divided rear housing

6boost ceremic coated manifold (this was made to suit a 33 gtr turbo high mount position but fits all s13/14/15 rb conversions)

2x tial 38mm mvs

2x ceremic coated screamers made by Hypertune

3.5inch stainless v band dump pipe in heat wrap, made by Hypertune

Front cooler pipe with 2 dash 4 nipples made by Hypertune

Teflon braid oil feed through filter

Teflon braid water lines

Teflon braid return line

Braided vacum lines to waste gate

Nitto multi layer gaskets to suit rb26

4inch inducer pipe made by hypertune

Drift pod filter

This kit will suit RB20/25/26 6boost manifold flange

This turbo set up has only done 2track days and dyno day

This cost me: GTX3076 $2000

6boost twin scroll manifold $1200

2x 38mm mvs gates $640

ceremic coating $550

Teflon Braided line and fittings shealding etc $700

work to fit turbo and coolerpipe, dump,screamers,inducer $2000

Around $7000 in total, IM askin $4500 firm for all of this and its all new.

Turbosmart vee port blow off with alloy cooler pipe $250

Polished RB26 intake plenum with ITB's, Linkages,The sectiont that bolts to the head, vacum chamber, water neck

Im askin $700

Exedy twin plate clutch to suit rb, plenty of meat only done a couple of drift days.

Im askin $1100

Expurt 1000cc injectors, plugs to suit, rail and fittings

Im askin $700

brand new rb starter $100

Reco rb alternator $100

Canton Accu sump with teflon lines, electric solinoid and pressure switch, t piece to t into oil cooler, mounting brackets, custom made cover made by hypertune.

This is the biggest accu sump canton sell, holds 2liters of oil and couse of the size its hard to mount in engine bay, i had it mounted on my cage, thats why i had the cover built to pass scruteniring. This owes me around $1300 but askin $850

S14 s2 tube front end shell (reapers one) non rolling bare shell, has rhr damge, rails are straight, damage can be pulled out. $500 firm

BN type 4 s14 s2 brand new in plastic front gaurds $750

BN type 4 s14 s2 used and damged front gaurds, both gaurds have crakes but all pieces are there and easy fixed with fiber glass $200

Nismo copy s14 s2 bonnet damaged front right is cracked needs fiberglass repair $50

S14 CUSCO half cage $550

s14 dash with custom switch panel $400

S14 s2 boot lid with 4 holes $50

a14 1 left hand side genuine CHARGE SPEED rear wide body gaurd $100

s14 1 left hand D-MAX copy rear wide body gaurd $50

S15 white bonnet $250

S15 left gaurd with a small ding in it $50

s15 right gaurd $100

cannon to suit s15 $150

s15 stock front bar $100

s15 stock radiator $80

s15 a/c condensor $50

This is all i can think of but theres more crap ill put up next week. located in castle hill ring pete Contact Seller

photos http://imageshack.us...0706181631.jpg/

Ill get the alternater of u pete

Sad to see this go. I can vouce for this being a 100% no expense spared genuine build/ sale.

Edited by ydr030

that is one crazy setup, bit off topic but how much power were you making and on what boost?

was makin 375rwkw on 20psi and 392rwkw on 25psi and turbo started to run out and on e85..made 330rwkw on 18psi pump fuel on run in

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  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
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