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Got some 33 stuff sitting around that i was going to use on my car.. decided on other things so they have to go, they are brand new unless otherwise stated..

r33 gtst RDA slotted rotors - just the fronts, barely used, were on my mates car whilst it was being built, then tuned, then the car was off the road, so were basically never used.. - chasing $120 ono

r33 gtst Project Mu Type HC+, Brand NEW!!! rears only, they retail for $200 plus shipping, im chasing $180 delivered

http://www.nengun.com/project-mu/brake-pads-type-hc-plus - link to what they are

r33 gtst clusters, random numbers on them, various conditions, none of them have cracks though, just a few light scratches on the surface but otherwise fine.. odo reads 116, 76, and 113 accordingly, all gauges work, $80 each delivered. They seem to be over $100 on ebay and the likes so thats cheap as chips delivered!!!

r33 gtst Stock Aero Side Skirts, EXCELLENT condition, no cracks or smashes or anything, check the pic out for the condition of them, mint as FARK.. chasing 150 ono..

post-50462-0-08358200-1341914476_thumb.jpg

Rays 57d's in fluro yellow.. 18 x 9.5, 2 of them are +12 and 2 of them are +22.. have been used on a drift car, but they are still in awesome condition, no chips, paint hasnt faded on them, and they come with BRAND NEW tyres, Gemstones on the front and Achilles sports on the rear, as i said, BRAND NEW, tyres are worth almost $800 alone,

Chasing $2200 Delivered Aus wide for them..

post-50462-0-02505800-1341914501_thumb.jpg

JDM styles train hang ring things.. be a JDM god and hang these from the towpoint of your car, bitches love that shit, $50 delivered Aus wide..

post-50462-0-15780400-1341914521_thumb.jpg

Located in Townsville, NQ.. I regularly use E-go for shipping so its generally cheap as chips, if you pay the prices i am asking i will organise and pay for shipping, but if you want to lowball me go ahead, but you will have to pay for shipping as i am not interested in getting jewed..

.

Cheers boys..

Chad - Rotors are sold pending payment, if this lad doesnt come through with the cash your next in line, then 33VOM if he ever gets his shit together.. :P

and nah bro, i imagine you'd need a HUUUGE chunk of cash ontop for the 57D's.. those XXR's are cheap as chips if you know where to get them from.. ;)

here's the best i can do man, these wheels are off an S15..

Here's my mates 33 though with the exact same wheel size, just obviously these are the orange ones from the range..

582356_440930672591514_1276096428_n.jpg

edit: i found one of it sitting still.. exact same wheel size.. :)

544871_10150841843246987_977026493_n.jpg

Edited by iadore4door34s

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    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
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