Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all,

i've been strongly advised that my oil cooler problems is due to the thermometer mechanism not opening up and letting oil flow through to the core?

this makes perfect sense as the relocation kit and filter is hot and the braided hoses to the core and the core itself is dead cold even after several track laps.

im just wondering if anyone has encountered/heard of such a problem? was the fix to remove the thermometer/mechanism altogether? or is there another fix?

also, what are the pros and cons of running no thermometer? i understand the fact oil needs to be at a certain temperature to effectively work?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/40563-oil-cooler-thermometer-issues/
Share on other sites

I think its a good idea to run a thermostat in ur oil cooler system cause if u dont it circulates the oil through the cooler as soon as u start the car and it takes ages to heat up, so it stays to thick and doesnt circulate very well, i suppose this can cause engine damage over time. I would just replace the sandwich plate that bolts to the block. I think thats were it is.

Cheers

I think its a good idea to run a thermostat in ur oil cooler system cause if u dont it circulates the oil through the cooler as soon as u start the car and it takes ages to heat up, so it stays to thick and doesnt circulate very well, i suppose this can cause engine damage over time. I would just replace the sandwich plate that bolts to the block. I think thats were it is.  

Cheers

thermostat, thats the word i was looking for :rant:

yeah i want to keep the thermostat too. i want it to work as it was supposed to! ie. open up at a certain temperature. having said that, i know alot of oil cooler systems which work without thermostat's!?

the thermostat is on the relocation kit for the oil filter i believe? its a trust grex kit....

with the temps we get in Oz, I don't think we really need the thermostat .. believe the original intention was to prevent oil going into the oil cooler during cold winters ? anyway, i didn't bother getting a thermostat equipped one in my car, oil warms up within 5-10 mins depending on outside temps. just drive it sensibly, thats what I do. Did you have anyone else look at your problem franky?

yeah i'm very close to taking it to ben and just telling him to rip out the thermostat. i've also been told that by pulling it out simply giving it a "service" may get it to work again? i can see a replacement thermometer being a pain in the ass to acquire tho! :

yeah my local mechanic and proconcept have had a good look at it. both have been too lazy to open up the relocation kit and give it a proper diagnosis. infact, the only place to suggest doing that has been c&v...the others have just kept telling me what i tell them ... bast&^#! :)

The oil thermostat is there for a reason. Unless you intend to let your car warm up an extra 20 mins before driving anywhere.

But in saying that, you drive like a sook unless you're at wakefield so rip the friggin thing out!!! :(

:D

Adrian

nismo32, i dont think its the healthiest thing to be running cold engine oil but i do know several people who do it. but i guess they'll never know the true extent of the damage because they wont keep the car long enough to know :(

i want to keep the thermostat.

This is my impression.

Like Frank I use a Serck/Earls kilt. It's way overkill esp. in winter, although we'll see this weekend :(

I do notice that the oil filter is very cool in normal driving?

It's my impression that the motor sends the dirty oil to the filter thence to the cooler and back to the motor?

This is the normal flow as the oil MUST pass the filter therefore must flow to the cooler?

T.

i notice the oil filter very hot whilst driving which is reassuring knowing that the engine oil is getting filtered...

do you ever see your oil cooler core hot?

the 2 braided lines running between my engine block and relocation kit are hot. the 2 braided lines running between my relocation kit and core are dead cold (and so to my core).

my understanding is, and this is coming from my experience with my kit, the dirty oil from the engine block is getting to the relocation kit and the filter, being filtered, and then returning back to the block.

because the thermostat in the relocation kit is not working, the oil is bypassing the oil cooler core. hence the forward and return lines of the oil cooler core (and obviously the core itself) are dead cold...

As far as I know, there's no thermostat in my Earls kit but you're free to ask the workshop who installed mine.

My 19 row cooler is not installed in the normal place (no room!) but it only gets lukewarm but I expected this - I asked the distributor for Serck/Marston if this is normal and they said it was.

The oil filter gets hot but I guess no more than say 50c because it's never uncomfortably hot.

Otherwise the car runs as if the core was not there - warms up as quick as a stock car.

T.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
    • I'm interested,do you still have it?
×
×
  • Create New...