Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys

Been a while since I posted here. Some of you may remember me when I posted my issues with my tranny a while ago. The car is not shifting out of first although when you disconnect and reconnect the battery it will run fine for another hour or so. I've been adviced by my mech that the issue may lie in the TCM itself but tbh I don't have the time and the money to try to fix it anymore.

Anyway, after many , I've decided to cut my losses and sell it cheap.

I've posted it on Gumtree for now and so far only had a few tyre kickers and scammers. So I thought I'd post it here to gather more interests.

The engine is flawless with less than 65,000 on the clock (61,200) to be exact. Paint, body and interior is excellent with negligible issues.

The driver seat's railing needs to be welded because one side is broken ( No, I'm not overweight ) I will consider reasonable offers and willing to help organise interstate shipping if needed.

Here's the link to the gumtree ad : http://www.gumtree.c...peed/1005450447

Going to put it up on eBay very soon.

Thanks guys, any opinions or advice?

Word of advice : Stay away from CVT :/

post-63310-0-73662400-1344651240_thumb.jpeg post-63310-0-99913300-1344651245_thumb.jpeg post-63310-0-74514600-1344651248_thumb.jpeg post-63310-0-15026300-1344651251_thumb.jpeg post-63310-0-90691100-1344651253_thumb.jpeg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406757-fs-v35-gt8-transmission-issues/
Share on other sites

If you are thinking of getting back even close to 10K for it, you are better off selling the parts off individually, etc engine, interior, body parts, suspension etc...

Otherwise, $10K for a car that potentially needs a whole new transmission is still quite a gamble for any buyer out there. As far as people who are aware of CVT issues associated with the V35, I would not even buy it for 10K if the CVT was working fine. They are pretty much just a ticking time bomb.

Thanks for the helpful post ni5mo :) this sale is considered without a transmission since it is a gamble.

$10,000 is my asking price and I'm negotiable. This car still fetches 15 - 20 grand here in perth if everything works fine.

*edited typos

Edited by dodes47

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...