Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok so my series 2 has been throwing little tantrums over the last week...

randomly on my way to belmont one night when it was pissing with rain my car decided to start a serious rough idle, slight surging, misfiring and wanting to stall - its an auto. the car would completely drop revvs then instantly shoot back up to over 1k... massive black plumes of smoke coming out the back. went on for about 30 mins then cleared its self up... its continued doing this even after 4 tanks of fuel because im getting maybe 250km outta the tank atm cause of its hissy fits....

checked air leak - found a leak parts on order

spark plugs only 2 months old.

fuel pressure regulator - possible and requiring new one!

coil packs - only done about 100k but still stock so could be?

so i was told take off the cover where the coil packs were cause if they are getting too hot it could be causing these issues... so i attempted myself unaware that bulk shit needs to come off to remove such a simple little thing.... got half way through it yesterday, storm came through so i packed it up to tackle later. last night go to put car back together. achieved. feeling proud as punch.... go to start car FAIL... initially nothing at all but power. fiddled with stuff. car will crank but not fire like there is no fuel BUT i got half a tank FML....

IF ANYONE KNOWS OR CAN HELP ITS GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!

otherwise i might roll it out into the street and burn it lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408521-help/
Share on other sites

Start by looking at what you took off/unpluged and make sure its all back to gether correctly.

Sounds like the coil pack harness is not plugged in correctly. If you car is stock or close to it removing the cover can cause more harm than good by letting crap into that area.

From what you have described it sounds like you Air Flow Meter (AFM) is at fault. Search here and google that will give heaps of things to try and fix it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408521-help/#findComment-6518790
Share on other sites

easy to tell before pulling it apart, does it prime?

turn the key to on (not start) and see if you can here it or is there pressure in the line (squeeze it near the reg)

Just because an electrical plug looks to be connected doent mean it is. Every plug you touch go back unplug, check if there is anything in it and plug it back in makeing sure it hits home.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408521-help/#findComment-6520420
Share on other sites

Similar thing happened to me with an aftermarket bonnet, water got under the coilpack covers in heavy rain and car dropped down to 5 cyl, then 4 cyl and then it didn't run. Had to pull it all apart and take out the coilpacks and clean it all out and I sold the bonnet which was a shame cause I really liked it. While the car was running on 5 cyl etc I used a hell of a lot of fuel and eventually realised that my o2 sensor had burned out too. I could only travel about 300kms on a tank of gas. Unsure if the two problems were related, but they happened at the same time. Hope that helps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408521-help/#findComment-6521853
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...