Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Been a while since I've been on here, so howdy to all the new and old faces.

I've got a bit of an issue. After 3 and a half years of owning my V, I got pulled over on the freeway and got slapped with a yellow sticker for having HID lights without the necessary 'protection'. I bought the car from Sydney with these on and upon bringing it to WA it went over the pits in O'Conner and passed registration without any issue. They are 4000k HIDs so brightness wasn't the problem, rather, they are not "self-levelling" nor do they have "washers" and therefore are deemed 'illegal' by virtue of ADR 13 and a few bits of legislation. I won't rant on about the cop's conduct, but let's just say he wasn't a pleasant chap.

I wasn't speeding nor have I had any major prior run-ins with the police. He refused to believe it was factory fitted nor did he believe that it passed pits so I've lodged an official complaint with the department of transport and an 'investigation' is being undertaken by them as I refuse to pay the inspection fee for something which should have been picked up over the pits.

Here's my dilemma, I took off the wheel and the splash-guards, got access to the headlight housing to find that the halogens which I bought won't simply "plug n play" into the existing HID housing (duh! :P) I'll be ringing my mechanic on Monday to see what he can do, however, in the meantime does anyone know or has anyone attempted to convert their HIDs back to stock halogens? (I don't imagine there'll be a lot of people). I've read various articles about hacking away at the wiring loom, by-passing the HID ballast etc but it's all Greek to me so I won't venture up that road. Any suggestions guys? Does anyone know of a place/website where I can get OEM wiring and ballasts to put the halogens back in?

Plan on selling the car over the next couple of months so don't want to spend too much $$$.

Many thanks in advance!

Tarun

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/409352-converting-hid-to-back-to-halogen/
Share on other sites

You don't need ballasts for halogens. The reason why is because HID lights require a really high voltage to initially excite the HID lamp and then maintain a moderately high voltage to allow the HID lamp to continue to operate from that initial jolt.

Both voltages are far too high for a 12V halogen. Therefore, you have no option but to cut the 12V wires going into the HID ballast and connect them to your halogens. Thereby taking the ballast out of action altogether.

I don't know about retrofitting the halogen bulb in the assembly as I haven't yet converted mine back to the factory HID (as it was converted to halogen for ADR compliance, as it's meant to be).

I agree the ADRs are ridiculous to say the least though. Thankfully mine has the auto-levelling system but no washers so if worse comes to worse, I could always stick on a couple of fake washers if it becomes an issue here in NSW.

If you can track down a compliance workshop in your area, they should be able to tell you how to do it, as they should do it on every V35/36 that comes into the country.

Cheers for the feedback guys.

After posting this I managed to dig out an old box sent by the previous owner which contained the halogen headlight cradles to hold the H1 globe in place (which was a start). After a couple of hours, a crimp tool, some spade connectors and electrical tape, I managed to secure and mount the halogens in. Problem solved...for now.

They look like absolute crap compared to the previous HIDs but just need to clear inspection and back in they go :P

Edited by diabolique

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
×
×
  • Create New...