Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

About to embark on a rebuild of an RB25DET, and have some questions.

To get the basic stuff out of the way :

Planning a basically stock build. The motor doesn't have a tonne of k's on it, and suffered a boost related issue which was thought to be a head gasket or head problem.

Neither of these things proved to be the issue (Issue still not found).

The plan is to build it to stock spec, and consider more power later.

Does anyone have a particular opinion on Brands for Rings, bearings, gaskets.

Does anyone know a good place to get these items in Brisbane? I trust Brisbane Turbo and Tuning, but have been out of the scene for long enough to have forgotten who else is around.

Does anyone have experience with building the RB25DET, that might point out an possible traps or tricks i should know about?

I'm planning to do rings, bearings, VRS kit (Since the head is already stripped). Anything else that would want doing in one of these?

I've rebuilt an engine before, but not one of these, so I'm open to all the suggestions and advice you can throw at me.

Thanks in advance.

Jeff

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/410011-rb25det-rebuild-questions/
Share on other sites

Hey,

I'm starting to think i either asked something stupid, asked it in the wrong place, or somehow in my searching the forums, didn't see an identical thread?

Is this the case? or is it simply a case of no-one having anything useful to say?

Cheers,

Jeff

You really should go with some decent pistons and a bore while it is all apart.

Stock ones are fine but prone to detonation.

If you don't know what caused the problem then it will probably happen again unless fixed

What happened to the motor anyway to do this, low compression or blowing lots of smoke?

Hey m.j.h,

From what i understand, the car had been off the road for a year.

The owner installed a new FMIC, and started driving it.

One day it overheated, started running really rough...

Dropped the oil, and it was full of water.

The head has been checked, and no problems found.

The headgasket didn't show any signs of damage, or water or oil.

The turbo has been checked, and seems to be fine.

If the head and headgasket come back fine, i'm wondering if the block is ok... maybe a cracked water gallery or something?

Pricing up replacement engines at the moment, considering just throwing a low k import in it, while I get the old block and head crack tested, then put it on an engine stand.

Hey Guys,

Looking at going the 25/30 route at the moment. Just need to work out a few more details.

So for now, it's a slow slog through the RB30DET forum to get my questions answered...

Either way, there will be some parts for sale before this project is over :)

Yeah,

This is the GF's R33/ Our toy... I have a 92 Prelude, and she has an 06' Tiida, plus, we're in the process of rebuilding the 2003 ZZR 250 i bought her for her birthday...

So, we have plenty of wheels... lol.

But, we don't want to have the R33 sitting for too long, so i'm making sure I do the research before we commit to what do to get it going again.

Actually haven't picked up the R33 yet, it gets delivered mid next month, so we have some time to work it all out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...