Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

anyone know if it's fine to wire up positive wire from battery to alternator directly

I already have done the negative wire although it earth via bracket

is fusable link required as mine was chopped off

my issue is the alternator voltage is almost half volt more than at the battery terminals

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/410087-alternator-wiring/
Share on other sites

Yeah it's fine. Ideally a fuse is a good idea and depending on the car you can but alternators almost never fail to the point of shorting out completely. Just double up alternator cable from alt to fuse panel for extra security. Are you sure the volt drop is in pos cable?

While running, Set multimeter to volts. Go neg batt - neg alternator= neg volt drop.

Pos batt- pos alt = pos volt drop.

You can break it up into smaller sections once you know which side your fault is.

I've left standard wiring, then added 0gauge cable from batt in boot-starter then 2gauge cable from alternator-front fuse box connections. All cables are well secured but I've added an isolator switch just incase

Edited by t_revz

thanks, the way i tested it, earth to chassis and +ve probe to battery and then compared it to the alternator +ve lug nut.

ill test it your way this arvo and report back

for the alternator cable to fuse panel, is this the one in the engine, do i simply remove it and the cable running to the fuse box underneath will be visible? is the white wire with the blue strip?

Yeah it's fine. Ideally a fuse is a good idea and depending on the car you can but alternators almost never fail to the point of shorting out completely. Just double up alternator cable from alt to fuse panel for extra security. Are you sure the volt drop is in pos cable?

While running, Set multimeter to volts. Go neg batt - neg alternator= neg volt drop.

Pos batt- pos alt = pos volt drop.

You can break it up into smaller sections once you know which side your fault is.

I've left standard wiring, then added 0gauge cable from batt in boot-starter then 2gauge cable from alternator-front fuse box connections. All cables are well secured but I've added an isolator switch just incase

just did the test

+ve to +ve 0.22

-ve to -ve 0.02

so i gather an issue with the positive wiring.. instead of running +ve from alt to fuse box, if its alt to battery, will there an issue with this?

otherwise i guess strip the loom and replace the cable incase with heat soak it increases resistance

Sounds good.

with direct wire from battery +ve to alternator +ve 're-did the test

+ve to +ve 0.08v

-ve to -ve 0.02v

so definite improvement there, will take the car for a long run and see if voltages drop after a while

thanks for all your help

small update on this,, while it fixed my overall low voltages that i was seeing, i still see around 0.5v drop after driving the car onces its all warmed up..

i suspect its my attessa relay that going off every 30sec or so.. so will disconnect the relay and see if it makes a difference..

  • 2 years later...

Sorry to summon an old thread, but I can't find anywhere that tells me what the wires are on my R32 GTR alternator.
I'm putting the RB26 into a BMW, and I get the positive and ground, but there's a small brown plug with 2 tabs sticking out and I don't know where I'm to connect them. Is one to a light and the other to ignition on?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Back on topic for you for a post Will it be on pump or ethanol? 2025 Spec RB build: G30 660 .83 would be good  artec manifold turbosmart 45mm external gate 1000cc Injectors Kelford cams 264 and springs Pistons and rods for insurance Oil pump with billet gears Headdrain and all good oil mods Quality intercooler 3.5 inch dump pipe to decent exhaust Link plugin Ecu or what ever your tuning is comforatble with Bolt on Trigger Kit - Nzwiring kit is go to ARP Headstuds Quality headgasket quality fuel pump- a TI/walbro 525lph PWM would be the go Quality fuel reg Will be over $15K AUD Enjoy the noise of rb on gate at over 7400rpm. Start looking for gearbox conversions if your hard on the gear. Now I've been there and done that with rb powered street car (2007-2022) much prefer newer stuff. Anything 90's Japanese is not a great experience these days and highly over rated. My 2015 Brz with a heap of suspension mods is such a better car even with out the power of my old s chassis' even on track. If wanting to play light chassis and decent power for a  giggle a k swap 86/brz would be the go Check my old build for engine stuff I really need to pay attention to post 2016 BMW stuff but seem all very heavy 1600+kg  
    • I mean, the 240i is not a Supra... make it drop a few hundred kg, have a sportscar chassis, clearance for wheels etc... Maybe I want a hardtop Z40i XDrive or something :p I do agree with you though and have long said the B58 Supra/240i/340i/440i is the new R Chassis/JDM90's turbo rocket for mod lovers to ... not always appreciative response lol. Doesn't make it not true though.
    • I will do the build myself but I will be paying for the tune because I don't know how much about that and would rather it be done right and by a professional 
    • Will you build and tune it yourself or do you need to pay for labour? 
    • Mechanically that's essentially what the M240i is, it's just not pretending it's not a BMW
×
×
  • Create New...