Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

anyone know if it's fine to wire up positive wire from battery to alternator directly

I already have done the negative wire although it earth via bracket

is fusable link required as mine was chopped off

my issue is the alternator voltage is almost half volt more than at the battery terminals

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/410087-alternator-wiring/
Share on other sites

Yeah it's fine. Ideally a fuse is a good idea and depending on the car you can but alternators almost never fail to the point of shorting out completely. Just double up alternator cable from alt to fuse panel for extra security. Are you sure the volt drop is in pos cable?

While running, Set multimeter to volts. Go neg batt - neg alternator= neg volt drop.

Pos batt- pos alt = pos volt drop.

You can break it up into smaller sections once you know which side your fault is.

I've left standard wiring, then added 0gauge cable from batt in boot-starter then 2gauge cable from alternator-front fuse box connections. All cables are well secured but I've added an isolator switch just incase

Edited by t_revz

thanks, the way i tested it, earth to chassis and +ve probe to battery and then compared it to the alternator +ve lug nut.

ill test it your way this arvo and report back

for the alternator cable to fuse panel, is this the one in the engine, do i simply remove it and the cable running to the fuse box underneath will be visible? is the white wire with the blue strip?

Yeah it's fine. Ideally a fuse is a good idea and depending on the car you can but alternators almost never fail to the point of shorting out completely. Just double up alternator cable from alt to fuse panel for extra security. Are you sure the volt drop is in pos cable?

While running, Set multimeter to volts. Go neg batt - neg alternator= neg volt drop.

Pos batt- pos alt = pos volt drop.

You can break it up into smaller sections once you know which side your fault is.

I've left standard wiring, then added 0gauge cable from batt in boot-starter then 2gauge cable from alternator-front fuse box connections. All cables are well secured but I've added an isolator switch just incase

just did the test

+ve to +ve 0.22

-ve to -ve 0.02

so i gather an issue with the positive wiring.. instead of running +ve from alt to fuse box, if its alt to battery, will there an issue with this?

otherwise i guess strip the loom and replace the cable incase with heat soak it increases resistance

Sounds good.

with direct wire from battery +ve to alternator +ve 're-did the test

+ve to +ve 0.08v

-ve to -ve 0.02v

so definite improvement there, will take the car for a long run and see if voltages drop after a while

thanks for all your help

small update on this,, while it fixed my overall low voltages that i was seeing, i still see around 0.5v drop after driving the car onces its all warmed up..

i suspect its my attessa relay that going off every 30sec or so.. so will disconnect the relay and see if it makes a difference..

  • 2 years later...

Sorry to summon an old thread, but I can't find anywhere that tells me what the wires are on my R32 GTR alternator.
I'm putting the RB26 into a BMW, and I get the positive and ground, but there's a small brown plug with 2 tabs sticking out and I don't know where I'm to connect them. Is one to a light and the other to ignition on?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
×
×
  • Create New...