Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Does anyone know where I could find a BRAND NEW Genuine Nissan radiator support from a company or someone who can provide me a tax invoice? The smash repairers that's taking care of my car tells me all parts needed is on back order and they need the rad support to get working.

I tried contacting JSAI but have no luck getting through. One phone number, one email etc, can't seem to get any response at all whatsoever even through the countless texts I've sent the guy telling him it's an urgent matter yet no response. Going there isn't an option for me since I live no where near the area and I would be even more pissed off to find out its not in stock or they closed down or what not.

Does not matter where it's located, as long as its brand new and in stock and genuine.

Hi mate,

How bent is yours? In some cases (and depending who is doing the repair), it can be straightened.

You may be better off sourcing a used white one, I dont believe it would be hard to find. I suggest this as it would just look alot more genuine in my eyes because when you replace it, you will obviously have to paint it - etc. Which would not look ideal and may be an obvious sign of front end damage if you were ever to try and sell the car.

If you do want brand new genuine Nissan, you would most likely have to go via a Nissan direct dealer which supplies import parts. Nissan at Prospect does this, however it would most likely be ex Japan so there would be a wait involved.

If you try and get it from Nissan Australia you might want to bring your own lube, because they will charge extra for it when they go to insert the pineapple, rough end first.

If you have, or can get, a genuine part number, try these guys first

http://www.amayama.com/

I recently sourced some strut top isolators for my datsun 1200 ute. Nissan aust wanted $130 each for them, and told me I had about 6 weeks wait for them to arrive. One email to them guys ^ and I had 2 of them sitting on my doorstep, 9 days later, at a grand total of $31 each, delivered.

My support is bent beyond repair. It was a minor accident but the impact point was smack bang in the middle and the bonnet latch caused most if not all of the damage to the support. its an insurance job now so cost is not a problem. I need a genuine brand new since the smash repairs need to give me lifetime warranty on their work which is understandable. Also I don't really have anything to hide if I was to sell it, its pretty much bolt off bolt on parts except the support. I know it will depreciate the value, but not by far compared to some repairable write offs that are listed for sale at 2-3k under a decent one.

could anyone be kind enough to check for the part number on their car? Mines at the repairers

Pretty sure the guys with that FAST program on here can help you, failing that if you log into Amayama.com they have Part No listings so you should be able to locate it on there!

My support is bent beyond repair. It was a minor accident but the impact point was smack bang in the middle and the bonnet latch caused most if not all of the damage to the support. its an insurance job now so cost is not a problem. I need a genuine brand new since the smash repairs need to give me lifetime warranty on their work which is understandable. Also I don't really have anything to hide if I was to sell it, its pretty much bolt off bolt on parts except the support. I know it will depreciate the value, but not by far compared to some repairable write offs that are listed for sale at 2-3k under a decent one.

All makes sense mate.

could anyone be kind enough to check for the part number on their car? Mines at the repairers

My N/A R34 is at my parents place, I'm visiting them this afternoon so i'll remember to look for a part number for you.

All makes sense mate.

My N/A R34 is at my parents place, I'm visiting them this afternoon so i'll remember to look for a part number for you.

Thanks a load man

How much of it do you need? You can buy the centre rad support section and both the headlight areas as one piece under part # 62500-AA000, If you only need the centre piece or centre and 1 side I can get individual prices as it may work out cheaper.

I think I need the entire support since it's bent to the part where it's welded into the members and where it's bolted on. If I sound like I don't know what i'm talking about, most likely you're right.

Yeah I need all those bits. Are you able to source them?

I can't source them myself, punch the part number into amayama.com and they can get them. It will be coming from Japan though.

@iwanta34gtr, numbers in the Fast nillustartion are part codes not part numbers, the part codes correlate to all variants of a certain part available for that model of vehicle.

For instance 62500 will give you the part numbers for those panels in either 34GT, 34 4WD and 34GTR specs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You know how your car rolled through a fence in your last jacking escapade? Scissor jacks increase the likely hood of that sort of thing happening immensely!
    • http://calfinn.com.au/product/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c   I have this and fits under a S3 33 GTR with no issues. Purchased in 2009 and not one issue. It was $950 back then. Not cheap but something so important isn’t worth cheaping out on.
    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
×
×
  • Create New...