Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys I have 100000k stock block. Bent rods(hydrolock) I have found a really good deal on rb26 forged rods and cp pistons. They are stock 86mm size. Whats the possibility of the bore still being good? I've found a cheap rb26 crank to go with the rods and pistons aswell

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/410108-rb25-stock-bore/
Share on other sites

If the bores are fine then yes, normally you can just hone them and put standard sized (86mm) pistons in. You know 26 pistons will usually give you a lower compression ratio than standard 25 right?

It sounds like your best option could be simply sourcing a good complete stocker bottom end and throwing your head on it. Assuming you don't need a built motor?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/410108-rb25-stock-bore/#findComment-6550348
Share on other sites

I thought if I go 26 crank aswell it won't?

Dnt need a built motor but it's either the forged rods and pistons or re ring the pistons that r in it and new bearings. I know it will be cheaper to get a new motor but I'd like to learn how to do all this

Edited by zac320
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/410108-rb25-stock-bore/#findComment-6550524
Share on other sites

Hey guys the local mechanic has convinced me to just put a new motor in. So I'm chasing a rb25 bottom end. No need for head or any other accessories. Just block to sump. It needs to be in good condition.

Cheaper the better especially if ur out of Vic as I'll have to freight it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/410108-rb25-stock-bore/#findComment-6553856
Share on other sites

I have the bottom end here and I'm struggling to source a bottom end for cheap so. I'm thinking acid dip and hone block and clean up pistons and basic rebuild.

Bearings mains and rod $200

OEM rings $190

Nissan gasket kit $200

Rb26 rods $75 ( second hand from friend)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/410108-rb25-stock-bore/#findComment-6554057
Share on other sites

I am going to do it. Took it to the Best local engine builder around and he doesn't want to do half the things, eg install rings on pistons but I install pistons. As he doesn't want to be liable if anything f**ks up. But he said I can take me engine into his workshop and do it there and ask for his advice which will be a great learning experience for me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/410108-rb25-stock-bore/#findComment-6554109
Share on other sites

im in your exact shoes.

it was option 1: buy 2nd hand unknown condition motor from someone.

or what i chose, option 2: rebuild, refresh and toughen up ("toughen up" being used lightly) my existing motor (ACL bearings, ross tuff harmonic balancer, crank oil drive thingo, ARP headstuds etc etc).

i think i would be kicking myself if i started getting huge blow-by after 12 months of getting a 2nd hand motor.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/410108-rb25-stock-bore/#findComment-6555672
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...