Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi people, first post here, i am actually a big ford fan but even more of a turbo Inline 6 fan, so im not all bad :P

anyway, i would like to know a little about skyline diffs - i know the crownwheel and pinion from a R31, VL commonwhore (possibly later models too?) and EB/EL falcons are the same, but i was wondering what is the extent of the skyline interchangability?

like, is an R31 crownwheel and pinion set (LSD and/or open center) interchangable with an R32 or an R33 diff?

reasons behind my query:

my car came with a 3.45:1 LSD standard (its an EB XR6 Falcon) and last year i got a 3.9:1 lsd built for it, and slapped that in - car hammers, fuel consumption, not so good.

i went on holidays to cairns last month, and swapped diffs with a mate (3.08 open) for better fuel consumption, and he is now in love with the diff, wants to keep it, so im on the prowl for another 3.89:1 gearset - i already have another LSD center, housing, axles etc, i just need the gearset now - so, in short, what model skylines can i get a set out of?

much thanks in advance for your help :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/41094-skyline-diffs-what-fits-in-what/
Share on other sites

is an R31 crownwheel and pinion set (LSD and/or open center) interchangable with an R32 or an R33 diff?

No.....R32/R33 use 'stubby' R200 and IRS, but locally built R31 uses BW live axle diff so is totally different.

Import R31 uses R200 with IRS, but diff is the 'long nose' type and CWP is also not interchangeable with R32/33 type.

As he said.. and i think the import diffs are viscous as well ??

Best bet is just an aussie R31 w/ LSD (bit rare) or VL turbo.. All Skyline Silhouette

models come with them so if you can track down one of them (difficult) you'll get a nice LSD. TI's also are more likely to come with LSD, but not all come with them.

Don't XR6 (or is it XR8) also come with LSD available as an option?? In fact when I asked recently, most R31 guys recommend looking at an XR6 or XR8 to find an LSD centre due to easier availability.

Unfortunately.. they usually tend to put poxy low ratio diffs in the aussie cars :P while 3.89 is nice, 4.11 is better :)

I've got a bit of an interest in this, as my diff in my r31 is getting a new centre put in thursday. I was going to go LSD, but unfortunately the cost, and even just finding an appropriate LSD centre was pretty hard.

Actually, seeing as your in QLD, you could always call the guys mine is getting done at to find out your options: NERANG DIFFERENTIAL SERVICES PTY LTD : (07) 5596 4963..

Don't XR6 (or is it XR8) also come with LSD available as an option?? In fact when I asked recently, most R31 guys recommend looking at an XR6 or XR8 to find an LSD centre due to easier availability.

thats pretty funny - all the guys from fordforums are racing round import wreckers and stuff looking for skyline LSD centers and CWP sets to put in their falcons!!

im pretty sure that all EB and ED XR6/8 falcons came standard with LSD, and after that (EF onwards) it became an option? i really dont know...

as i said above, my car came with 3.45:1LSD stock, but i didnt get that built with the 3.9 gearset - i actually sold that diff entire (axle to axle) to a mate with a ED fairmont, for cash and his diff exchange (yet another damn 3.08 open center) i got that diff built up to 3.9 using a LSD center from a 2.77 NA fairlane diff (which required getting a machine shop to build a spacer for the crownwheel - 2.77 centers have different offset, but 2.92 and shorter the offset is the same) so i have been threashing that diff for about a year, still going good.

funny thing though - i have the 3.08 diff in my car from my mates ED futura, my mate has my diff which was built from an ED fairmont diff, and his girlfriend just bought the ED fairmont that donated its housing to build my diff - the original plan was to put the 3.45s (my original diff) into the futura, the 3.9s back in my car, and the 3.08s in the fairmont again :S diff swapping shenanigans!!! bugger that - i will just get this one done and leave the poor cars be.

mal wood automotive in/near gatton has a few LSD centers, and at a reasonable price if you want them, i just happened to get lucky and find a cheap center from a stacked Falc - now i need to get lucky again and find a cheap gearset too!

i think i will put an add in the wanted section on here...

oy, stop stealing our LSD's!! :P

I was reading up a little on the fords.. appears XR6/XR8 and Falcon Ghia, Fairlane and LTD have the LSD's, but they are fairly long ratios.

Aussie R31 generally come with 3.7 for the manual (edit: thanks steveL), and 3.89 for the autos (mine).. but most are opens. Bit nicer, doesn't seem to chew through that much petrol either. I do a stack of highway driving and get around 9L/100km with the RB30E.

Guess you can mix and match like you were saying.

Thanks for the pointer to Mal Wood. This open spinner will probably be fairly temporary if I do what I want to do, and chuck an RB20DET in my R31. If that is the case, i'd probably want to go an LSD after I have ground the other one into little pieces :)

yeah..i need to find someone wrecking a R31 or getting a shorter ratio or something - 3.9 is the shortest i will go, as the car nearly hits the rev-limiter in 4th at the end of the quarter with 3.9s - with 4.1s it will definately require a shift to 5th :)

if any of you hear of a 3.9 gearset sitting around anywhere let me know please!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
×
×
  • Create New...