Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Had a mishap at paintball on the weekend and dislocated my ankle and fractured the fib.

I've got a plate and some screws and am currently laid up, working from home on the recliner.

My first appointment with the fracture clinic is this Monday where they will assess it, put a proper/full cast on it if the swelling has stopped, and give me some details on where we go from here.

I realise this is a 8-12 week injury and that it will take quite some time before I have full usage. I've been told NO weight bearing on that leg for at least 8 weeks. Oh and no driving... Given I'm 30, I don't expect a miracle 4 week recovery or anything like that.

In the meantime, I don't want to fall off the wagon too much in terms of the rest of my exercises.

I'm expecting at least 2 weeks of doing nothing to allow the swelling to subside from surgery and to allow that wound time to seal up a bit.

After that, I'm thinking that I could at least be doing some exercise to try and not lose too much strength in other unaffected areas, chest, bi's tri's etc.

Has anyone had first hand experience with this sort of thing or is anyone here a Physio that can comment? I'll ask at the clinic as well but the more info the better.

I've got free weights at home, and a bench press and have already discussed with the missus about possibly stacking the bar for me.

I'm old enough now to listen to my body and not to rush things so I won't be going crazy trying to push heaps of reps or weight, my main focus is to get the ankle/leg better and to try and minimise as much muscle loss, and keep fat down, as possible.

At present, I'm 6ft, 84kg, 12% BF on one of those cheapo electric home scales if that helps, nothing special I know, but it's taken me a little while to get back here after some gym related injuries and I don't want to go any further backwards than I have to.

Obligatory pic. Possibly more to come.

post-23873-0-44839100-1350439119_thumb.jpg

Edited by ActionDan

ho...ly...shiiit

where you playing indoor or outdoor paintball? I've played both and the indoor was ridiculous... there was so much paint on the floor it was like ice it was that slippery... a mate twisted his knee pretty badly

I have no experience other than a broken elbow but for what its worth...

a break is a break, you have to wait for the bone to knit back together or your going to have all sorts of problems

its not worth damaging your leg permanently

that being said you can probably do quite a few exercises... bench press, bench rows, pull ups, dips, push ups, seated overhead press, seated curls, seated skull crushers... however on all these exercises I would put your leg up on a box or similar... layed on it supported by your calf, NOT sole down if that makes sense... as even though your sitting on a bench you will still put weight through your leg if the sole of your foot is on the floor

Outdoor, sprinting for cover during the last game where the buck had to cross the firing line, we had paintballs left so he did it again but chose his 3 groomsmen to come with him (I'm the best man in the wedding which is 3-4 weeks away, should be fun on crutches). So I was sprinting and put my left foot too close to a little gulley/creek (less than a meter deep) and the ground gave out, when I put my right foot down, shit got real and I cratered into the little gulley thing. Good times...

Yeah I plan on having a chair/box I can rest the leg up on so the foot is not on the floor. I realise it will take some power out, but that's cool.

Are you sure you only broke your fibula? You can walk on your leg usually with a fractured fibula.

The dislocated ankle might be making it look like you broke your tibia as well...

Edited by Mitcho_7

I dislocated my ankle and tore 4 of its ligaments a few years back, so it's a bit different to having a fracture in there as well - that would be the main worry with any exercise, regardless if it's a complete fracture or hairline etc. You should be alright with most upper body exercises - just be sure of your balance as you could use the bad foot in a reflex if you aren't properly careful (as I did - it hurts!).

Also if you're sitting around a lot it would be worth having a look at basic range-of-motion exercises for your back and upper body as well as knees/hips if you can. And with the upper body work you can use much lighter weights and use it as more of a cardio exercise than for muscle.

Try and work your other leg a bit, though crutches will also give you a bit of a work out and the sole use of one leg will help it, the leg that won't be being used will be a fair bit skinnier in 2 months time!

I think just try out your exercises in a couple of weeks and find the ones you're most comfortable with and go from there. Sounds like you may get a full cast which is more intrusive I guess, I had a back slab of plaster down my calf and under my foot so I could shower without it when it eventually didn't hurt to try and remove - this also allowed me to get into a pool after about 6 weeks - lots of exercises can be done there particularly holding a board with your thighs to prevent any other leg movement.

Definently a rough looking dislocation!

I didn't mean you can walk around like nothing has happened with a fractured fibula, but people have been known to fracture it and not even know. Definently not good for the healing process!

Edited by Mitcho_7

I've had some really bad ankle sprains playing basketball and they HURT... ankle swells up like there is a tennis ball in there and its all colours of the rainbow... but that looks like nothing I've seen before... the pain must be severe!

so you rolled it the other way, onto the inside of your ankle? usually they go the other way, onto the outside

No it rolled outside, that lump you see is the Tibia with the foot having rotated almost 90 degrees clockwise when looking down on it.

I found out last night I actually have 7 small screws and one large one that goes through to the Tib to lock the whole thing in place, looks pretty crazy in there.

What can be done diet wie to maintain the muscle mass? Just protein? I use Dymatize Elite Fusion 7, it's a blended protein more aimed at recovery. I'm just having a half serve daily at the moment while I try and work out what to do. I'm trying to avoid high fat/sugar foods as I'm so inactive to hold off the fat build up also.

Here's some pics from the clinic, cast was too tight so they gave me a new one and I took the opportunity to get some snaps.

post-23873-0-25150900-1350523493_thumb.jpgpost-23873-0-05806200-1350523503_thumb.jpgpost-23873-0-97218100-1350523511_thumb.jpgpost-23873-0-92413700-1350523521_thumb.jpg

No it rolled outside, that lump you see is the Tibia with the foot having rotated almost 90 degrees clockwise when looking down on it.

riiight... I just ate lunch... and it almost came back up lol

you did a very good job of that... no half assed ankle sprains for you!

Honestly, I'm a bit pissed. I cover 90-100ks a month of running/walking, not to mention the incidental amounts from Gym, work, daily movement etc Plus I do a little bit of leg exercise so I would have assumed my shit was more resilient than this. It was very disappointing to realise the extent of the injury and how long I'd be out for.

But enough woah is me. How do I maintain what's still there?

A guy at work has a small under desk mini exercise bike. I thought I could borrow that and use it with my arms for some cardio too.

What's the best approach with protein and avoiding muscle mass depletion?

Edited by ActionDan

As for exercise. My Surgeon had this to say.

Go as hard as you like so long as you're not putting ANY weight on the broken leg.

So after two test sessions I've found I can, with the aid of a chair for either propping the leg on or sitting on, bench at full weight, ezy bar curl with reduced ROM as I'm sitting, still do dips, abs, hammer curls (sitting), military press (sitting) and can do one legged squats, calf raises on the good leg and do some leg extensions from the knee on the bad leg.

He said all of this is fine, there's also literature to support that working the good leg partially translates to the bad so hopefully atrophy will be reduced on that leg.

All in all, enough to keep me going for now. He did say that it would be quite some time before I had 100% no holds barred use of the broken leg, up to a year depending on my commitment.

By that he means, 100% sprinting, turning, pivoting, lifting etc without a second thought. He said I should have fairly full usage of it well before that, but that it takes quite some time before you can really forget about the injury sustained.

Edited by ActionDan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
×
×
  • Create New...