Jump to content
SAU Community

New Apexi Power Fc & Fc Commander (With Organic El Screen). Nismo 555 Cc Injectors And Apexi Power Fc Boost Control Kit


Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Selling my new Apexi Power FC & FC Commander, Nismo 555cc Injectors and Power FC Boost Control Kit - all for an r33 gtst. Comes with everything as it is new in the box having only been delivered from Japan 2 weeks ago. The Boost control kit is plugged in directly to the Apexi ECU to allow you to control boost pressure via the Hand Controller.

Prices:

Apexi Power FC & FC Commander: $1200

Power FC Boost Control Kit: $450

Nismoc 555cc Injectors: $820

Walbro 255 fuel pump (341 model): $150

Buy new performance parts for 2nd hand prices. No waiting to have it delivered from Japan and everything, as mentioned previously, is brand new in their respective boxes. I've already marked it down from the actual price I paid for each item, so prices are negotiable, but please be kind. :)

Reason for sale is I'm looking at getting a different setup. I will also post my Brand New In Box GCG turbo once I get the actual specs for it. I will post pictures shortly.

Located in Sydney. You can reach me on 0426 208 077

Thanks

Things can be sold as a package with the turbo. This is basically a bolt on, guaranteed response package, good for around 250 (conservative) - 280 kwatw. Otherwise prices are as is. I may be able to bundle certain things together and work out a slightly cheaper price. Thanks everyone.

Whats the part number for the boost control kit? Will fit BNR32? Cheers

FYI

I just bought one of these PowerFC boost controllers myself and paid a similar price. They're becoming relatively hard to find, but according to Apexi it will fit your 32 GTR. There is some information below about compatibility, it should use 3-pins I believe.

Model 415-A001 - Apexi PowerFC Boost Controller kit

Nissan Skyline - R33 GTS-t S2 - ECR33

Nissan Skyline - R33 GTS-t S1 - ECR33

Nissan Skyline - R32 GTR - BNR32

Nissan Skyline - R33 GTR - BCNR33

Nissan Skyline - R34 GTR - BNR34

Nissan Silvia - S14 S1

Subaru Imprezza - GC8/GF8 Ver1-2

Nissan Pulsar GTiR - RNN14

Nissan 180SX - RS13 (CA18DET)

Thanks for the info rb_2six, I'm currently running a PowerFC D-Jetro (GTR33D) in my BNR32 so I'm tyring to find a Boost Control kit that comes with the map sensor harness. And yeah your bloody right about trying to find them ^_^

Edited by ADUBZ

Hi Tom, Thanks for that, the part number is correct and is compatible with the cars on the list.

Semi interested in the Power FC. Is there any changes in the new versions of the Power FC's?

was it ever fitted? Did tuning software communicate alright with it?

Good morning guys. Been quite busy over the past couple of days, so sorry for the delay in replying to all the PMs. PMs have been replied to. :)

PMs replied. If items do not get sold as a package this week I will consider selling items individually. I'll be in touch with the people who pm'd first.

Hi guys, unfortunately interested buyer for the whole package is unable to proceed with the purchase. I will make contact with those who pm'd me re the individual parts to check if they are interested over the next few days. I just need to figure out postage costs since this is the first time I will be sending things interstate. I will be using e-go to get estimates for the cost of delivery.

Hi Mate,

Could you provide further details on the spec of the turbo? What price are you looking for as well? Thanks.

Hi Mate,

Could you provide further details on the spec of the turbo? What price are you looking for as well? Thanks.

Sure mate. It's a gtx2876r with a 0.7x rear housing. I was originally looking to get an r34 turbo (with the OP6 housing) and high flow this, but after speaking with GCG they actually recommended this unit. It's still designed for response but has a slightly larger housing so it will provide somewhat more kws than a high flowed r34 turbo.

This turbo has 6 bolts on the dump side so it will bolt on to a stock r33 manifold and has a T3 flange. The only fabrication work needed is on the intake side where an intake pipe will need to be made up (or a flange of some sort for your current intake pipe if you would like to retain it). This turbo is rated around the 420-520 hp mark depending on tune and other supporting mods. I bought this brand new 2 months ago from GCG themselves for $1950, so I am hoping to get a price around the $1800 mark or so. I hope this answers your questions mate.

BTW are you from Sydney? If you are you can have a look at the turbo and scrutineer it to your hearts content. :)

PMs replied to. To those interested please include your area and post code so I can get a more accurate quote for you.

Boost controller sold to Ash (adubz). Power FC sold pending payment. Other items still for sale.

Hi guys. Sorry to those I haven't finalised details with. I've been camping out here in Sydney in a line for a land sale so I haven't been able to do much else. Just to confirm payment has been received for the boost controller. I will get in touch with you callan re payment in the next 2 days (as soon as I get home).

Boost Controller and Power FC sold and are on their way to their buyers. Items still available:

- Nismo 555cc Injectors (side feed)

- GCG GTX2876r turbo

- Walbro Fuel Pump

Oh apologies, turbo is a gtx2867r (ball bearing). Confirmed with GCG that housing is 0.73.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
×
×
  • Create New...