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6x Nissan Silvia/200sx s15 coilpacks

Price: $50 each

I took a pic of 4, but I have 6...

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EVO 6/7/8/9 brembo rear calipers with pads and lines

Price: $320

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JDM Genuine Nissan Silvia/200sx s15 OEM window visors

Includes everything from the factory, paperwork and satchels of 3M stuff.

BRAND NEW

Price: $250

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Genuine Nissan Silvia/200sx s15 OEM wiper blades

BRAND NEW

Price: $50

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JDM OEM Nissan drilled alloy 4th pedal/dead pedal from (I believe) a NISMO-EDITION 380RS, make it fit your car, I don't have time to fit it to mine.

Price: $50

Price drop: $25

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JDM Genuine Nissan Silvia/200sx s15 optional part - cubby cover thingy

This goes on the left of the steering wheel and allows you to mount some additional switches or other stuff without chopping up your dash.

Price: $30

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ADM Genuine Nissan Silvia/200sx s15 sun visor - passenger side

Price: $10, or free if you're buying something else

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Genuine Nissan Silvia/200sx s15 high mount/centre/3rd brake light housing, no globe and wiring, missing a mounting leg.

Price: $50

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JDM HEKTIK Y0 - Auto Service MATSUFUJI s14 clutch pedal brace, may fit s15 and s13 but I don't know for sure.

This braces the clutch pedal bracket and stops it from flexing; is a good mod for those that run tuff clutches or likes to kick it once in a while. Stops the flex and stops the pedal bracket from breaking.

BRAND NEW

Price: $80

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FAKE and expensive STARCORPS, made in Japan, otherwise known as Genuine WORK equips 3 piece wheels

19" x 11" -12 offset

Super deep deep deep dish

Includes 2 wheels

Includes 2 centre caps

Includes 2 BRAND NEW metal hub centering rings

Includes 2 BRAND NEW achilles ATR SPORT 245/35/19 tyres

Price: $1500

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Genuine Nissan Silvia/200sx s15 air vents, 4 available

One of the clips on each of them are gone but still fits in fine, the rest of it is in great condition, rotates fine and flips up and down fine.

Price: $50 each

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rare Genuine Nissan Silvia/200sx s15 FULL COMPLETE SET of locks, barrel and 2 keys

Selling as a set, will not separate

Price: $280

Price drop: $230

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Other info:

No holds and no shotguns, nothing is sold till it's paid for or a deposit is put down.

I can ship anything anywhere if you pay for it. Pickup is available no probs.

Location: Homebush/Sydney

  • 2 weeks later...

Genuine HKS and Nissan turbo gasket set to suit SR20DET.

Genuine HKS studs and nuts (these fell out of the packaging and you can see them in the plastic bag beneath):

Brand new.

Price: $50 the lot, not splitting

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  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
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