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  1. Subaru STI seats driver and passenger (will need a clean) 2x slight rips in passenger seat less than 5mm $250 for both
  2. Subaru STI drive shaft x2 $150each
  3. Subaru WRX manual drive shaft x? $130 each
  4. Nissan skyline r33 series 2 headlights left hand passenger x2 $200 each
  5. 1991 Toyota Soarer Jz230 taillights left & right $60 each
  6. Subaru STI gc8 left and right hand indicators $40 both
  7. Nissan 300zx Nismo vg30DE plate clutch (twin??) $500
  8. Subaru STI gc8 front sway bar (maybe??) $100
  9. Nissan skyline r33 auto turbo cluster x2, 191896 $50, 53696 $90
  10. Nissan skyline r34 auto turbo cluster x1, ???kms $90
  11. Nissan skyline 300zx cluster manual x2 144411, 9848
  12. Mazda rx7 series 4-5 taillights $70each
  13. Mazda rx7 series 5 taillights (cracks in drivers side) $70 both
  14. Mazda rx7 series 6 complete rear taillights and garnish (crack in garnish) &200 for all
  15. Toyota Jzx90 L & R taillights $80each
  16. Toyota AE11 levin L & R taillights 80each
  17. Nissan S14 headlights (left and right) $60 each
  18. Nissan 300zx headlights (left and 2x right) $100 each
  19. Nissan skyline r32 taillights $60 each
  20. Nissan S14 taillights x 6 $60 each
  21. Nissan S13 taillights (left and right) @70 each
  22. Nissan S14 Indicators (2x left, 1x right) $30 each
  23. Nissan z32 200zx 2x left tail lights $50 each
  24. Nissan z32 300zx 2x centre garnish $80 each
  25. Nissan 180sx taillights 2x left, 2x right $70
  26. Nissan 180sx centre garnish x3 $80
  27. Nissan skyline r33 front bumper lights $40 each
  28. Nissan skyline r33 taillights 2x left, 2x right $50 each
  29. Mazda rx7 suspension set $300
  30. Nissan skyline r33 rear coilovers and aftermarket fronts $300
  31. Mazda rx7 strut braces rear and front $80 each
  32. Mazda rx7 body braces series 4/5 $200
  33. Nissan skyline r32 strut braces (front) $60 each
  34. Nissan skyline r34 strut braces front $70
  35. Toyota Jzx90 strut brace??
  36. Unknown strut brace (front & back)?? Gtr??
  37. Nissan skyline GTR centre gage cluster $60
  38. Nissan 300ZX aluminum bonnet small dints $120
  39. R32 gts-t bonnet cut to look look like a gtr one $100

I have photos of everthing and will up load tonight, Please PM me for more details

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    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
    • Ahh. Well the block damage is a problem, you really need to run a tap or thread chaser through it to see if the threads can be saved, but any chips are likely to be bottom end bound which is bad. Earls seem to have what you need if you want to stick with mounting direct on the block: https://rceperformance.com.au/parts/earls-straight-adapter-1-8-npt-male-to-1-8-bspt-female.html, but as I said above I'd recommend remote mounting the sender
    • I'm not quite understanding or I'm missing steps here, (I appreciate people are trying to inform my brain but I am of the dumb, especially today) - All I want to do is mount the male BSPT of the OEM sender into the system somewhere without it snapping the adapter via vibration. The Nissan sender has a male 1/8 BSPT output. The block has a (very destroyed) 1/8 NPT input. I'm not really sure how a lathe assists with that, and also don't know anybody with a lathe, nor specifically what I would want to buy. I'm not really sure how adding additional adapters creates a better, more leak proof resilient seal here.
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