Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

All this talk of sealant then wax...I was advised only to use o e or the other not both..

Have down a few cars now, cut, polish, wax..I stopped using the sealant and just go straight on with any good carnuba wax and they come up magnificent with Thick wet glossy finishes.. but those tiny little scratches you see close up in The reflection still illude me..Im wondering would a good wool pad help fix these..?

ARTZ,

Whare you are saying here is not a bad thing, and putting a Wax only on a car instead of applying a sealant will provide a level of protection. The problem is the protection will not be long lasting. You may find that (depending on how you use your car) the wax will last for maybe 6, 8 weeks? If you keep re-applying the wax on a regularly basis say ever 4 weeks then you will never notice a change. The wax provides a high level of shine and in some respect an element of protection.

The benefit to applying a Sealant is that is a lot stronger and you will get a longer period of protection. Also it’s an additional layer between the elements and your paint/clear. I would be suggesting applying your sealant and then keep applying a wax over the top of that.

Using AMMO as an example Skin has been designed to be applied and then the ability to reapply over the top of its self. This enables you to build up the layers. It’s ideal to apply these layers 24 hours after each other but again this is an ideal world so if you left it over night then the second layer would still stick ok. Then you can apply the AMMO Crème (WAX) over the top of the layers of Skin.

The other thing to keep in mind when you are polishing down a scratch is that you are cutting away a layer of paint / clear each time you do it. Sometime you need to make a judgment call on how much are you going to cut and is it worth taking out the scratch vs how much paint will be left. Now if you have a Paint Gauge meter you can work this out no worries but if you don’t just keep in mind how old your car is and if it has ever had a respray etc.

Cutting it down to the point where it's almost gone and then applying a sealant or wax over the top will fill in what’s left. Although this isn't the perfect and ideal solution sometimes it's the best call to make. Last thing you want to be doing is cutting it down to a metal panel.

This all comes back to "it doesn’t matter what you use as long as you use it offer." So you keep applying a wax then it will keep that smaller scratch protected along with the rest of the car.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Cheers.

Matt

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...