Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Meh... they're just tips, they don't need to seal.

Eventually the muffler and exhaust will likely be replaced.

Speaking of which, I also purchased a 2.25 exhaust with muffler and multiple bends for $10. LOL

Should be a good start to cut and weld into shape. (when MIK has some time) :D

Got some R31 Low Front King Springs from James today (Sir son of rajab Von Van Winkel), need to get motivated to do them and have a crack at doing suspension bushes.

Nolathane - Control arm bushes - Trailing arm bushes (upper and lower) - Pan hard rod bushes & Ball joints have all been acquired.

Might get some Tie rod ends too.

Pedders quoted over $500 to fit the bushes and ball joints on the car or $260 if I take the bits to them.

The end results should be AWESUM though.

Pulled the left front driveshaft out today. I had a split boot :(

It was so badly split I decided to rebuild the outer CV. Pulled it all apart (6 ball bearings, star wheel and case) cleaned them all out and regreased.

Ran outta light, but only have to re attached the caliper and throw on the wheel and then it's back on its wheels :)

Judd, could have been easier and quicker to grab a recon and have removed and put in. $300 all up from memory. Although if you know what's what then it's only time and the boot and grease cheap.

Edited by Sinista32

Yea that thought did cross my mind, as well as dropping it somewhere.

Buuut I don't mind getting my hands dirty and learning while I'm at it, and as you know money isnt as free flowing as I'd like ATM :( the boot was an eBay job, and less then half the price of genuine and came with a whole lot of grease. So basically it was my time and $20 bucks

I put my wheels on went to take it for a drive and the driver side was binding up :\ turned out to be surface rust on the disc and the pads stuck to it.

Sorted it out and took it for a quick lap and all seems well. Its now needs a full wheel alignment due to the change of tie rod ends and new bushes in the arms but it definitely feels nicer :)

GREAT SUCCESS

Put the Front King Springs in the Wagz. That's Low Kings all round now and yes the front is now a little lower again. :D

Ball joints are goosed so I just jammed some more grease in there. Will either get new ones pressed in or new Lower Control Arms. $$$

Pulled out the old Lower Control Arm Bushes with a nifty puller I made and put the new Nolathane bushes in. 25 year Old Bushes were Farqued.

Still need to do all the rear Nolathanes but between the fronts and the King Springs SkyWagon Feels Soooo much better / Safer to drive. :bunny:

post-78856-0-47990400-1396769731_thumb.jpg post-78856-0-48971300-1396769733_thumb.jpg

The change from when I bought her to now is Amazing but still more to come. :thumbsup:

  • Like 1

Slow.

Not much time last week to do anything. When i did have time it was freezing cold and i thought getting all wet from sanding wouldnt be nice.

Got back into it last night, did a bit of sanding on the skim putty.

Looking at the door... the crease loses definition around the middle. Also the bottom "fold" is not sanded straight.

I think i can do it by taping a strip of alloy to putty/sand against, and get a nice straight line.

The rest is coming along well, only bonnet and rear guard need work and its not tricky, just more skimming and sanding.

Still haven't fixed my Drivers side mirror after the Goulburn Melt Down so I put my Ganadors on instead.

post-78856-0-09696000-1396861442_thumb.jpg

They don't match properly as they are Black but they look mad nonetheless! ;)

Guess I'll get used to the Tiny Bluish reflections.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...