Jump to content
SAU Community

Is Anyone Very "in Tune" With What Pinging Sounds Like Inside A R33 Cabin?

sadr33

By sadr33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Got a Pulsar Grand Master

Got a Pulsar

Posted
Posted

My car used to miss on idle and never on boost. I pulled out the super expensive sparkplugs and replaced them with NGK coppers.

It has never happened again.

Manuel Kasko Grand Master

Manuel Kasko

Posted
Posted

Yeah seriously better to make sure it's okay for even $150 to get it checked over by someone.

I personally wouldn't keep driving a car not knowing if it's about to blow or not. As the others have said an engine change will cost a lot more then an inspection and if it really needs a tune then that will still probably work out better then a new engine.

Don't buy a performance car if you can't maintain it

simpletool Mentor

simpletool

Posted
Posted

The car feels slow because you've retarded the ENTIRE map by maybe 3 or 4 degrees (depends how far you've rotated it). This will have a dramatic effect on the general feel of the car and response. You really only want to reduce the timing aroudn 4400-5200 as the turbo is coming onto boost (and stop the interpolation into R&R as it goes above 8psi). The problem with the R33 is that it isn't able to be flashed and you need a Z32 ECU to get Nistune. If you are sure you only want to potter around with 10psi or so I'd recommend getting an R34 SMIC and a generic mail tune/ECU chip.

LOTS of people aren't going to agree with me because if you are going to modify in the future you it will be worthless and you will end up getting nistune or Power FC or whatever anyway. This is what ended up happening to me. But if you aren't going to swap the turbo and put on a front mount then I reckon a mail order re-chip is the way to go. I was pretty happy with mine with 10psi and 180rwkw and the R34 SMIC. Adding a front mount did nothing but add a LOT of lag on the stock turbo.

my 2 cents.

Manuel Kasko Grand Master

Manuel Kasko

Posted
Posted

Problem with a mail tune is again no one gets to see how his car reacts to the chip. Again all mail chips tell you to go get the A/FR's checked to make sure it's safe.

Toshi is a person who can flash your current tune and dyno it and re tune for as little as $700 re using the stock ecu.

His located in the business traders section and comes from Sydney. Not sure if that helps you because I'm using my mobile and can't see your location

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      r34 Skyline 25 Gt four GTR conversion (ENR34)

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This is the territory of the "Stage 1/2/3 Golf GTI/R" or otherwise off the shelf tune with (relative to before) minor mods. It's easier now. Downpipe and Tune and boom, big increases. Stage 1 OEM+ is where it's at. This is where the niche evolved into and it's really easy to see why. It's rare to even NEED to consider changing turbos or going to aftermarket ECU's or building bottom ends for more power. Stage 1-2-3 will get you a LONG WAY. Civic Type R turbo GR Yaris/Corolla Anything with B58 (MKV Supra/x40i) Anything BMW in General Anything Audi in General Any turbo AMG RenaultSport Turbo offerings Korean Elantra N/I30N Ecoboost Mustangs Focus RS? List goes on. I would argue in the future it won't even need to go on... M3P is pretty rapid out of the box...
    • MBS206
      r34 Skyline 25 Gt four GTR conversion (ENR34)

      By MBS206 · Posted

      There is a way, but it's not with the same cars. You need to find the same vintage of car, that we had. Realistically, that was an affordable car with aftermarket parts around. So what people need to find is a car that had a decent base in its day, and can be modified. They're looking for a car year make of 2010 to 2015 really... Aus could have done it if Holden didn't fold as V8 commodores were cheap, and if Ford didn't get expensive thanks to COVID, then you could cheaply play with FG Barras. Realistically, those are just a bit heavier, four door skylines. I'm sure the US and UK have similar cars they could find.
    • Predator1
      Ogura orc1000f vs Osg tr2cd vs Osg r3c experiences, max torque/max hp?

      By Predator1 · Posted

      Haha I do that.. thats when it chirps..The bit point for me is almost non-existent. Otherwise I stall it. But yes, in terms of performance, the clutch is solid af.
    • GTSBoy
      r34 Skyline 25 Gt four GTR conversion (ENR34)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Kinkstaah
      r34 Skyline 25 Gt four GTR conversion (ENR34)

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
×
×
  • Create New...