Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I have spent alot of time and money building this car to be a fun, reliable and fast track car but I am struggling to find the funds to finish off our house projects so unfortunately this car needs to go to provide the money needed to finally finish off the renovations. The details are listed below.

Details

1996 Aust delivered Nissan 200sx s14 series 2 - RACE/DRIFT CAR

Colour: Black

Odo: 152,300

Engine: sr20det vvti

Trans: 5 spd manual

Rego: Expired Nov 2011

Price: $13,000 neg

Modifications

Engine

- Head serviced with Mild head porting

- Valve guides reseated

- Nitto metal headgasket

- ARP head studs

- HKS 264 in, 264 ex with 10.5mm camshafts (step 1)

- Garrett GT2876R turbo (0.86 rear housing)

- Recirculating BOV

- Tomei Rocker Arm Stoppers

- Tomei 740cc injectors

- Hybrid Front mount intercooler

- Saber 42mm alloy radiator

- MSCN oil cooler

- z32 afm with pod filter

- Bosch 044 fuel pump

- Apexi electronic boost controller (AVC-R)

- custom made alloy 2 litre catch tank

- Straight through 3inch exhaust with high flow cat (not too loud)

- Amaron long life battery

- Apexi Power Fc ECU with hand controller

- tuned at CRD making approx 250rwkw at 19 psi (have dyno sheets)

Suspension/brakes/wheels

- BC Racing coilovers with adjustable camber tops

- Whiteline front adjustable sway bar

- JJR rose jointed Adjustable tie rod ends

- JJR Adjustable castor rods

- JJR adjustable rear camber arms

- Hard Race adjustable rear toe arms

- Nissan R34 skyline 4 piston front calipers and 310mm rotors

- BM57 Brake Master Cylinder (bore size 17/16 off 300zx Twin turbo)

- Motul RBF 600 Race brake fluid

- New Polyurethane rear upper and lower rear diff bushes

- New front wheel bearings

- qfm R1RM front pads and rear pads

- Goodridge racing Braided brake lines (ADR approved)

- Locked Diff

- 18x9.5 +12 work CR KAI wheels with Hankook Ventus TD Z221 semi's all round.

- Spare pair of brand new 18x9 +15 Lenso d1R wheels with Hankook Semi's

Interior

- Completely stripped interior with most sound deadening removed, ready for cage

- No stereo, no air conditioning, all components underneath dash have been removed but wiring harness has not be cut

- Autotecnica Monza RS CAMs approved race seat

- Autotechnica 6 point CAMs approved harness (attached to eyelets with metal plates in body)

- Specometer boost gauge

- Apexi AVC-R

- Apexi hand controller

- Momo copy suede steering wheel

- Momo copy quick release kit

- Short hub boss kit

- custom made alloy centre dash console

- Custom made alloy door trims with holder for electric windows switches

Body

- Fibreglass Vertex front bar, side skirts and rear bar

- Stock bonnet

- Front and rear gaurds have been rolled

- custom Alloy sump bash plate

- Sunroof removed and alloy plate Sika flexed ontop

- Roof and boot lid have been covered in carbon fibre vinyl wrap

- Body and body kit couold use a coat of paint

This car managed a low 1:09 at wakefield with an old leaky BOV causing the car to be very laggy and not create more than 10psi. With the new BOV now installed, the car should record a 1:07-1:08 with a good driver. It may even achieve better times with the addition of some aero (eg front splitter, rear wing etc) so it has the potential to be a seriously quick race car or very nice drift car. The body could use a paint job if you're fussy and I can organise this with any potential buyers.

I am located in the Liverpool area in NSW and so the car will obviously need to be towed away by the new owner. Feel free to pm or call me on 0407 931 097 for any questions.

post-6485-0-98015100-1355972157_thumb.jpg post-6485-0-22029200-1355972229_thumb.jpg post-6485-0-68584000-1355972290_thumb.jpg post-6485-0-83555500-1355972331_thumb.jpg

post-6485-0-49659000-1355972350_thumb.jpg post-6485-0-91376700-1355972516_thumb.jpg

post-6485-0-75775400-1355972570_thumb.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

The car is an Australian delivered model and was previously registered and therefore CAN be registered once again for those who have asked.

To register it in NSW, you would need the door trims, seat belts, centre arm rest console (I have this) and maybe carpet. You wouldn't need the rear seat if you wanted to register it as a two seater. I'm not sure about the rules in other states.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...