Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

NB this engine is being sold by Ninos not me.

Hardcore 'SR20VET'

Engine just had a freshen up a few months ago by Advanced Motor Mechanics in Sydney and would not have even travelled 800km since then. Over $6k was spent on the freshen up. There was no damage to the engine whatsoever prior to the freshen up. Everything was inspected and checked and parts changed that were necessary or upgraded.

Items marked new were replaced with the freshen up.

*OEM SR20VE crank 2L

*ACL race bearings ( new )

*Mazworx main studs ( new )

*Plazmaman billet girdle ( new )

*JUN Conrods

*Custom SBS pistons

*OEM Timimg chain kit ( new )

*Sleeved block - 87mm bore

*S14 oem water pump ( new )

*VE oil pump ( new )

*P11 SR20VE RACED PREPPED head ( Heavily worked and ported, VET has been disconnected )

*Custom rockers

*Custom one off cams

*Custom oversized valves - intake and exhaust

*Custom inlet manifold with fuel rail (no injectors with the sale)

*Over size head studs

*Plazmaman 85mm throttle body.

Other information:

The engine currently is dry sump however that is not being sold with the engine. To run this engine you will need to run an external oil pump set-up. This can be explained to potential buyers.

Engine has made a proven 536rwk@34psi (720rwhp) with a Precision 6466. It has never been boosted beyond this.

With 490rwk, the engine powered the car to a 10.2 @ 146.7MPH weighing 1380kg - this was before the freshen up.

Engine is capable of supporting power to run 150MPH and easy 9sec depending on turbo kit and car.

Big money has been spent on this engine no cheap stuff or short cuts. This is a very strong a reliable & proven setup. This is not a standard head VET conversion. There has been a lot of development, time and money spent on this head and engine to ensure it works. It idles, revs and performs perfectly. It is in excellent condition and will make power reliably.

Can be used in circuit, drift or drag cars - just depends what size turbo you want to run.

Reason for sale: I have another setup in the build - however there is absolutely nothing wrong with this engine. I'm just going bigger again! The engine will not be coming out of the car till its sold with a deposit paid so serious genuine buyers can hear and test the engine.

Price: $12K firm - long engine with inlet manifold. Does not include turbo kit or injectors. To build one like this is an easy $20k. Remeber this engine has just

Location: Sydney NSW

Call Ninos on 0400 198 798

GENUINE BUYERS ONLY PLEASE. No timewasters, information seekers or dreamers.

Edited by SRS13
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/417100-sr20vet-engine/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...