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I finally fitted my 350z springs on the weekend, and now I need to get an alignment done.

Last time I had an alignment with new tyres, I gave the shop a copy of the G35 sedan alignment specs.

However, i just noticed the 350z alignment specs are different to the G35 Sedan.

for example, the 350z runs an extra 0.3deg of negative camber front and 1deg rear, just over 1/2 deg extra caster on the front, and more than 1mm extra toe on the rear.

Now that I have 350z springs, should I be running the stock 350z alignment specs or the G35 specs?

This is my daily drive, so I don't want to be chewing through tyres too quickly..

Thanks.

Edited by sonicii
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just because you've got 350z springs in doesn't mean your car has become a 350z. Nor is it a g35 sedan.

you should be setting your alignments up as close to sedan factory coupe specs as possible.

WHEEL ALIGNMENT Year Model Caster Camber Toe-in (in.) Range (+/- Deg.) Preferred Settings (Deg.) Range (+/- Deg.) Preferred Settings (Deg.) 2003 G35 F 0.75 A 0.75 -0.50 0.04 +/- 0.04 Coupe R 0.50 -1.50 0.11 +/- 0.11

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairguides/Infiniti-Car-1998-05/Wheel-Alignment/Wheel-Alignment-Specifications/_/P-0996b43f803810c1

you will probably find though that with the 350z springs in you won't be able to get your camber dialed in to factory specs, there won't be enough adjustment in the camber arms to dial out all the negative camber brought on by the much lower springs - so you just get as close as you can, and if you start chewing out inner edges then look at adjstable camber arms.

Note: the above specs are for a USDM Infiniti - but the only difference would be if the specified a different caster between the two sides to create natural pull off the road, but they appear to be even so you should be sweet.

Thanks. My thoughts were since all the suspension geometry is now in the position it would be on a stock 350z, then perhaps the standard 350z settings would be appropriate.

Several people have said they had no issues aligning with 350z springs, but I don't know which alignment specs they were using.

After all, it is only a 25mm drop, which should be in range of the stock alignment adjustment.

Nup. The geometry is dictated by the mounting points - shorter springs just move the wheels into a static position that is further along in the intended arc of movement. The v35 is very sensitive to changes from stock. They seem to camber dramatically as soon as you introduce even the smallest amount of drop - and the stock camber adjustments can't really counter it. I'm on tein h tech which is like a 15mm drop. I'll post a pic of my front camber on stock arms - destroyed a set of tyres in under 10,000km.

Just get him to dial it as close as he can to stock specs, it will probably max the adjustment, but it's your best bet for tyre longevity.

Ok, thanks. I was under the impression the only difference between the V35 and 350z suspension was the spring height, I wasn't aware the mounting points are different too.

They are the same mounts but 350z runs shorter shocks and springs. But I guess it's irrelevant, because you're measuring the alignment by the wheels. I can see what you're saying though.

I'd still just align based on factory coupe specs. If there is any difference between specs for 35 and 350 it would be as a result of an engineers hard work. I'd just go with it. But any suspension tuner worth his salt should be able to dial in a car regardless of factory specs.

Let us know how you get on.

  • 2 weeks later...

I finally had this alignment done today, after speaking with a couple of suspension shops, they all suggested using the standard factory specs for the car and not the 350z specs.

They had no issues setting the alignment and got the rear spot on, but there is no camber adjustment on the front, it is toe only, so it is currently running about -1.4deg camber on the front, I'm not sure if this is excessive?? If it is going to to chew throught front tyres twice as fast, then I might have to get adjustable camber arms to correct it.

Nice - thanks for reporting back.

Camber was always going to be an issue on the stock arms.

Unfortunately the solutions aren't really cheap - adjustable arms will cost you about the same as a decent set of tyres - so I guess you got to decide how long you want to keep the car. Will take you 2 years to recoup the costs probably.

FYI - here is the camber on mine sitting on Tein H-Tech and stock arms. As you can see, it's pretty hectic.....

post-22161-0-51815100-1358379995_thumb.jpg

Edited by SMOKEYC34

Mine doesn't seem that bad visually.. I can't really notice it by looking (I can take a Pic if you like).

I just wasn't sure how bad -1.3deg will be (just checked the alignment report LH -1.34 RH -1.27), so not quite 1.4.. considering the stock sedan setting is -0.05deg and the coupe and 350z is about -0.35

I do plan on keeping the car for a while, but I only do about 10,000km per year, so I am expecting a set of tyres to last me at least a couple of years.

are they the SPL Pro arms? how much are they going to cost you?

What do you think of the ichiba arms? It looks like I am going to need at least +1deg adjustment from the stock arms and the SPL arms only do max +1, but the Ichiba arms do +2.

I am guessing the ichiba arms are steel, and therefore heavier than the SPL arms?

yeah SPL's - they aren't cheap - $600-$700 - but I wanted something that wouldn't knock. I didn't want to spend money and time putting a set in that made the car worse to drive from knocking and bumping and carrying. The reviews on the SPL's are very good.

Ichiba's on the other hand, have a questionable rep. Do your due dilligence and research, but lots of failed bushings leading to knocking and moving out of alignment.

The spl's only have +1 degree with the shims, but with the joints on the end of the arms you can get an extra +1.5 - so that's +2.5 in total.

http://g35driver.com/forums/brakes-suspension/387420-camber-adjustment-spl-front-arms.html

But if you're at -1.4 and -1.27 then you only need +1 to bring it back into spec.

Thanks for the info Mat.

Just another question.. if there is no front camber adjustment and the stock 350z has about -0.35deg camber, why does the V35 kick out to over -1 deg camber when 350z springs are fitted? Does the 350z have a different stock upper arms or a different steering knuckle to keep the camber correct on stock 350z springs?

I was looking at the SP eccentric upper arm bushes, but these only seem to give a +-0.5 deg camber adjustment.

I want to get the camber to a reasonable spec so I don't chew through tyres. If I have to, I will spend the money on the SPL arms. I don't want cheap dodgy arms that are going to give me issues.. but just thought I would investigate other possible solutions.

Other than price, concern with the SPL arms is the spherical bearing bushes, I am worried they are going to transmit more road noise through to the body than normal rubber bushings.

  • 3 weeks later...

After much searching, i think I am going to buy the SPC arms.. but not the PRO version.

http://www.spcalignment.com/component/spc/?task=part_description&pid=72125&region=AsiAust&make=Nissan&model=350Z%2FSkyline&year=2003+-+2009&from=AsiAustFrom&to=AsiAustTo

They are quite a bit cheaper and seem to have good reviews on the g35 forums.

They use hub and caliper shims to acheive more than 1deg of positive camber change. According to their webpage, trying to acheive more than +1deg of adjustment with the arms alone will cause space issues between the end of the arms and the wheel well.

The rubber bushings should also give a similar NHV to the factory arms.

They're certainly one of the better known brands - but I have read of issues with movement on the upper mounting bushes. But like anything on the net, you got to take it with a grain of salt.

I have SPC rear arms, and have no complaints whatsoever.

Be good to see you post some thoughts once they go in, good luck!

hmm.. perhaps I will just leave it and see how they go.. I have Kumho KU36 tyres on the front which are fairly soft.. they were $200 each.. so if I assume -1.5 deg camber will wear the tyres twice as fast, then it is going to take more than 2 sets of front tyres before I recoupe the costs of the arms.

But if it isn't going to reduce the life of the tyres that much, then it might not be worth the extra cost of buying these arms.

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