Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Tried lookin on Jaycars website, just looks like the normal gear.

I fitted a walbro pump last night and used only normal heatshrink.... then realised the potential for it to melt away from exposure to fuel.... :-(

http://www.compsystems.com.au/news/925-prodnews/134-dr25.html

Looks the go , just hoped I could source this within 24 hours otherwise I will have to put my fuel pump back together and redo the work again when I get the right shrink tube ..

So why does this stuff exist if it wasn't an issue with normal tubing ? (don't want to be the devils advocate here , just curious mate )

http://www.compsyste...s/134-dr25.html

Looks the go , just hoped I could source this within 24 hours otherwise I will have to put my fuel pump back together and redo the work again when I get the right shrink tube ..

So why does this stuff exist if it wasn't an issue with normal tubing ? (don't want to be the devils advocate here , just curious mate )

It depends on the chemical makeup of the plastic in particular. Petroleum breaks down certain plastics, some instantly, some over time. Ie its very easy to make napalm for that very reason

If it breaks down it seeps into the fuel itself and gets combusted in your engine. Not pretty.

Always good to be safe and check like what you're doing. Theres never any harm in asking imho.

-D

Managed to find Jaycar's fuel resistant heat shrink kit . 3.95 it's cheaper than the normal stuff at super cheap !

For 10 minutes work I will change it over . Good soldering practice at least ... Lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea I could, but it is amusing how shit a stock seat and belt are
    • Just to be clear, there were no lights or codes when the hiccups were occurring. Also nothing noticeable in the cars' braking. It brakes fine and the dash is clear. I only made the connection when it did throw a code and suddenly, despite the lights, it felt great again. 
    • Yeah they are sliders and this was in my head before I worked out it was the speed sensor.
    • Ok so we have a smoking gun.  A few weeks ago I had to replace a speed sensor that I'd fit incorrectly. I replaced the sensor and everything was fine with no lights or codes thrown any longer.  When I was doing some more bedding in yesterday I got ABS and traction control lights again and, considering when this happens those things are disabled, the pedal went back to normal with smooth braking and no hiccups.  The codes thrown are for the same speed sensor that I replaced. When I looked at the sensor I took out it looks like the tip of the sensor is damaged. So whatever happened to it, perhaps it has damaged the magnetic ring on the bearing (that I only replaced the other week). I'll get my boroscope in the hole where the sensor goes and see if there is any damage in there. Hopefully just the tip of the sensor is in there and the bearing is fine. 🤞🏻  It's worth noting also that the pedal hiccup happens more often and for longer periods now and totally goes away when the codes are thrown again which happens usually after 5 or so minutes of driving. Love all your help here as usual guys, thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...