Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys im still having heaps of issues with my R32 GTR. Anyway first it had a stalling problem and the other day I was driving and as usual it stalled, few days later I started her up and she died straight away, when I finally got her started she was idling and revving really rough and won't rev over 3k and blows a shitload of black smoke and I've just noticed that there white smoke coming from the turbo's side.

Would my turbo's be blown? Or motor maybe?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/418920-r32-gtr-turbos-smoking/
Share on other sites

Black smoke = running rich, which will happen a bit because the standard tune is quite rich, especially if you have wound the boost up. It will also run very rich if you have an air leak and youre boosting (or at least the turbos are attempting to boost). You wont make much power if you have any decent sized air leak. Usually this sort of stuff is not that serious.

White/blue smoke = oil burning, this is usually more serious. Can be from oil leaking past turbo seals, or past valve stem seals or past piston rings.

So, first couple of things;

- Check engine oil level

- Look for air leaks. Could be a split intercooler hose (one of mine just did this) or loose connection. Probably not a hose coming off because you would typically get a bit of a pop when it comes off, but still check for it.

- If you make no boost at all (ie it goes from vacuum to 0 but not past it) you have an air leak or blown turbo. Its pretty much always the rear turbo that blows. If the turbo has blown you will see ceramic turbine bits trapped in front of the cat, so you could drop it to check for that. It just looks like bits of rock.

- After that, a compression test may be worthwhile

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...