Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So looked around about this and it's very hard to find someone with exactly the same problem so here it goes for my problem and hopefully will give reference to others in the future.

Will try get a video ASAP

So car is fine and dandy as I'm driving along, on hot days but don't know if it's the weather that has anything to do with it as I work nights at the moment and have no chance of driving her when it's cool. All of a sudden I driving along and te car will drop maybe 200 rpm and it will feel rumbly as it idles. Now when I accelerate it feels as if te car is choking on something , I hit 4000 revs and it starts to go away but tends to missfire a bit , at this point. Get home turn her off, drive later it's fine untill later on while driving again . Note sometimes it had gone away while driving. So I've changed spark plus and cleaned the throttle body as I thought maybe its got gunk in there, spark plugs were a bit flooded so those were changed to new ones which the girl at repco stuffed up and have me platinums instead of copper.

So what's my next step to check, I checked the coilpacks and they seemed to be clean.

Your time and effort in assisting me will be greaty appreciated

And the car of course

1996 r33 gtr series 2

Stock engine

Straight through exhaust

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/419190-my-r33-likes-to-chuga-chug-chug/
Share on other sites

Try re-soldering the AFM, there is a 'how to' on here somewhere. Or get another known good unit to try. Most times an intermittent fault like this one is due to dry solder joints inside the AFM.

best to trouble shoot and solve yourself before getting to the tune/dyno as if it isnt they will be charging you top dollar to trouble shoot your car, as well as to fix the problem that you could have easily done so from home...

Okay well then I'm changing mechanics, as mine said the tune should fix if but failed to tell me what it was as he didn't know what it was. Ill give another place a go, try run the car and bring it to them with the problem, if they can't tell by a quick drive ill ask to book a dyno run and have it faulting before I jump on

Try re-soldering the AFM, there is a 'how to' on here somewhere. Or get another known good unit to try. Most times an intermittent fault like this one is due to dry solder joints inside the AFM.

+1

Don't waste your time doing anything else before doing this. Speaking from experience.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
×
×
  • Create New...