Jump to content
SAU Community

RB30 Engineers help PLZ!!

ABuSD

By ABuSD,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Bl4cK32 Grand Master

Bl4cK32

Posted
Posted

Its like saying your putting a 202 out of a HQ holden into a HZ that had a 173, or whatever smaller engine....Nissan used the RB motor on HEAPS of models for a number of years..

On a side note mine uses 2 "Holden" RB30 tensioner bearings ($80 each) instead of $292 for a Nissan idler and $170?? for a Nissan tensioner....

And as mentioned Dayco timing belt is a catalogue item cost $30 instead of $90 for Nissan genuine item :)

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
see the RB30 option seems ok now! But just getting it engineered is my problem :)

It doesn't need engineering :headspin: , the "new" block will have the same engine number as the "old" block. Because it gets stamped on there by the machine shop when they rebuild the "new" bottom end. If you want to sell the "old" block, you have to have the numbers machine off, because there can't be 2 engines around with the same numbers.

I wonder if he will get it this time? :bonk:

browny Proficient

browny

Posted
Posted
Its like saying your putting a 202 out of a HQ holden into a HZ that had a 173, or whatever smaller engine....Nissan used the RB motor on HEAPS of models for a number of years..

No its not that simple. Its all about ADR's. The car will generally need to conform to the newest ADR's that apply to either of the engine or car.

It is easy to put a newer engine into an old car because as long as you include all emmissions gear (eg pollution control devices, std ECU, cat etc) then can argue that the emmisions will be the same as the ADR that the engine complies with.

If you put an old engine in a new car you need to be able to prove the emissions meet the (most probably) newer ADR's that the car was designed to meet. I have heard various things about how easy/expensive this can be but i've never needed to explore it any further.

You can't just swap any red motor around, even though they were from the same series. This is because they bought in an emissions ADR in 73 (I think). The same rules apply as above for these swaps.

eg

*pre-ADR engines can be used in pre-ADR cars

*pre-ADR engines can be used in any post-ADR car if fitted with all the ADR complient emmissions gear from the later series motor

*Post-ADR engines can be used in post-ADR cars

*Post-ADR engines can be used in pre-ADR cars if fitted if the ADR emissions gear is retained

This system works off engine numbers and is why you will find people with the older Holdens looking for "pre emmissions" blocks so they can legally run aftermarket carbs etc.

JimX Grand Master

JimX

Posted
Posted
If you put an old engine in a new car you need to be able to prove the emissions meet the (most probably) newer ADR's that the car was designed to meet. I have heard various things about how easy/expensive this can be but i've never needed to explore it any further.

This is the main reason why you stamp your old engine number onto the RB30 block if possible. As far as the RTA (or equivalent in each state) is concerned, it's the same engine and they will be none the wiser. No one doing a pink slip is going to pop your bonnet and say "Hmm, this engine looks 50mm higher than normal, I think it might not be the original!" The RB30 will probably fail emissions testing, but then again, I'm sure mine will fail as-is anyway with the mods on it and it's still the original RB25.

If you buy a second hand block and have to change engine numbers you may strike a problem (although I haven't read of anyone in these forums getting any), but doing it the way SK suggested with the same engine number should get you no problems at all.

The head has a much larger effect on emissions than the block anyway. Pistons and blocks are fundamentally the same as they were 50 years ago. Most of the technology advancements go into the head.

ABuSD Veteran

ABuSD

Posted
  • Author
Posted

no i get it, i understand all of yas! And am VERY apreciative of the input and info. I just dont want headaches when i sell it, what is more of a catching trading post ad: an R33 wif an RB30DET or an RB25DET? if all legit i kno id pick the RB30 ANYday!

Cheers once again!:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      You can probably scrub the rust with a toothbrush or something. After you get the rust off flush well with water to neutralize and you will probably want to also use a fuel tank sealer to keep it from rusting again.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      The sodium citrate solution is designed to buffer the citric acid to keep it from attacking metal quite so much, the guy that came up with that recipe did a ton of testing on how much metal loss occurs over time and it's nothing crazy unless you forget about it for months:   
    • Hexi
      Dumb rich kid tries modding for the first time

      By Hexi · Posted

      Ohhh I see lol To be honest the main reason why I wanted to start modding is because of a business trip to Japan and Indonesia. I saw many cool and modded cars all throughout in these countries, especially Japan. I myself am of Chinese+Japanese nationality and when living in china (never lived in Japan js my dad side lol) I remember staring at these cars pass by with their loud tacky exhausts and insane wide body kits. And when I went back to Japan, I got even more invested even asking people about their cars and why they modded. Most gave similar answers to what you said but funny enough one guy just said that he saw the need for speed movie being filmed once in Tokyo I think near Shibuya Crossing and got inspired to tune and mod. After that I just started to fantasize on owning a car like that. Also tbh I prefer the R32 over the R34 it's just the R34 is more iconic lol (also apparently better aftermarket support than the R32) and my only goal really is just to make the car mine and make it fun to drive. As much as I love my Cayenne it's pretty bland to drive. Sure the interior is nice and pretty, gives you attention yada yada but I've wanted to experience what it is like to have a car that is truly yours. I suppose thats the goal so far. Haha if you find where I'm from, then sure. Ill help you out on your next "financial decision"
×
×
  • Create New...