Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb25De+T Not Running Right

zacc80

By zacc80,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

HR32GTS 4DOOR Community Regular

HR32GTS 4DOOR

Posted
Posted (edited)

ohh ok i understand now, so pretty much use the 20 loom and ignitor with a 25 injector loom, and everything else should be sweet to plug in and run, eliminating any faulty wiring ? also how would i go about hooking up the vct to the ecu ?

Yeah get yourself an rb25 injector loom, cut off the plugs and solder them onto the rb20 loom. then with the VCT run a wire from pin 113 to the ground of the VCT solenoid (the ecu grounds the solenoid) then run a wire from a switched +12V source to the other pin. Make sure you test which pin on the solenoid is ground and power or it wont work. The plug for the VCT is the same used on an N15 pulsar with VCT so they are pretty easy to find. All other plugs SHOULD be the same unless someone has tampered with it.

Also two wires on the ecu need to be swapped around.

Pin 112 and 114 need to be swapped. These are the injector trigger for 4 and 6.

Edited by HR32GTS 4DOOR
zacc80 Rookie

zacc80

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok cheers for that, so really the resistor packs installed in my loom shouldnt be there becuase standard purple 25det injectors are high impededence and the ecu is also high so these resistors is mostlikely the cause of my motor running crap ?

HR32GTS 4DOOR Community Regular

HR32GTS 4DOOR

Posted
Posted

No it shouldn't be there, but I don't know if it would make your motor run bad or not.

This is for the injector plugs.

http://www.jdmlegion.com/Projects/R32%20Skyline%20GTSt/RB25-conversion-Stage-16---Wiring-the-injectors-491fdbae-99d1-4448-a9cb-1b785054da59

zacc80 Rookie

zacc80

Posted
  • Author
Posted

so i put my multimeter on and the resistance was under 1 ohm so they must not be standard injectors, i did find that a bolt on the cas was snapped so it could be a timing issue, but it seems to run quite rich can smell fuel and backfiring a bit and has a few flames blowing out exhaust, now im wondering if the injectors could be bigger and it putting through too much fuel maybe ?

HR32GTS 4DOOR Community Regular

HR32GTS 4DOOR

Posted
Posted

so i put my multimeter on and the resistance was under 1 ohm so they must not be standard injectors, i did find that a bolt on the cas was snapped so it could be a timing issue, but it seems to run quite rich can smell fuel and backfiring a bit and has a few flames blowing out exhaust, now im wondering if the injectors could be bigger and it putting through too much fuel maybe ?

Ok so the injectors are most likely bigger than factory. If you can afford it, get a tuneable ecu and take it to a good tuner, they should be able to sort it out.

Cheaper option would be to grab some standard injectors and swap them out.

Can you pull one injector out and tell us the numbers on it and the colour? Or take a photo.

zacc80 Rookie

zacc80

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thought id let you all know that i rewired the car, and is running good now, just need to adjust idle, and when driving if you foot flat accelerate it will cut out once hits full boost, i have no boost tap or anything so could it be a leak ?

HR32GTS 4DOOR Community Regular

HR32GTS 4DOOR

Posted
Posted

Thought id let you all know that i rewired the car, and is running good now, just need to adjust idle, and when driving if you foot flat accelerate it will cut out once hits full boost, i have no boost tap or anything so could it be a leak ?

It's most likely the fact that you have non standard injectors with a factory ECU

zacc80 Rookie

zacc80

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ended up being one of the injectors was stuffed and constantly dripping out fuel causing the rough idle, not revving out etc, put a new injector in and runs sweet, anyone know what a 25 plus t can handle with standard everything, am looking into a bigger turbo, wastegate etc but not sure how they handle it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Rusty roof repair

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Hot tip, stop picking at shit. Live in bliss instead   From my recent experience in rust repairs, white it may seem to not go much further back, you'll still need to cut back a bit further.  From what I can see there, the outer skin, and the inner is rusted too. From what I can see you've got the inner one which is all structural, and window likely affixes too.   If tag Murray Calavera here, but my phone won't let me tag him, he'd probably be able to give the best advise.   I do know, welding roof panels is a right pain in the bollocks! Very heavy to heat distort the roof and warp it all.
    • PranK
      Rusty roof repair

      By PranK · Posted

      Some of the filler.   Also if I look under the top flap of metal it starts looking good quite close to the edge. I get the feeling it doesn't go much further.
    • PranK
      Rusty roof repair

      By PranK · Posted

      So, I finally started digging at the bit of my roof that was cracking and bulging a bit. Well, it was just thick filler that was covering some pretty bad rust. I didn't find the edges, I was too bummed to keep going.  There are a few holes as you can see. There was just so much filler but looks like no attempt under the filler to prime or use rust converter, just slapped filler on exposed rust.  Anyway, I'm going to take the windshield out and find the edges. I'd love to fix this myself as I'm pretty sure it'll be expensive to get done properly. I was thinking I could just get a cut piece from another E39 and just weld it in place as it would be the right size and shape.  Thoughts?
    • Kinkstaah
      r34 Skyline 25 Gt four GTR conversion (ENR34)

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This is the territory of the "Stage 1/2/3 Golf GTI/R" or otherwise off the shelf tune with (relative to before) minor mods. It's easier now. Downpipe and Tune and boom, big increases. Stage 1 OEM+ is where it's at. This is where the niche evolved into and it's really easy to see why. It's rare to even NEED to consider changing turbos or going to aftermarket ECU's or building bottom ends for more power. Stage 1-2-3 will get you a LONG WAY. Civic Type R turbo GR Yaris/Corolla Anything with B58 (MKV Supra/x40i) Anything BMW in General Anything Audi in General Any turbo AMG RenaultSport Turbo offerings Korean Elantra N/I30N Ecoboost Mustangs Focus RS? List goes on. I would argue in the future it won't even need to go on... M3P is pretty rapid out of the box...
    • MBS206
      r34 Skyline 25 Gt four GTR conversion (ENR34)

      By MBS206 · Posted

      There is a way, but it's not with the same cars. You need to find the same vintage of car, that we had. Realistically, that was an affordable car with aftermarket parts around. So what people need to find is a car that had a decent base in its day, and can be modified. They're looking for a car year make of 2010 to 2015 really... Aus could have done it if Holden didn't fold as V8 commodores were cheap, and if Ford didn't get expensive thanks to COVID, then you could cheaply play with FG Barras. Realistically, those are just a bit heavier, four door skylines. I'm sure the US and UK have similar cars they could find.
×
×
  • Create New...