Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok so i wanted to change my dash from that pale yellow to a nice white colour to match my boost gauge and just look nicer. I bought white leds and put them in etc. When i lit it up it is actually a bright-ish blue (see pic). I took out the leds and made sure they infact light up white which they do. So i pulled the cluster apart and noticed the faces have a blue coating on the back. Is there an easy way of removing it? or has anyone ran into this problem before? Seems strange that the OEM bulbs had blue rubber things on them, the dash face was blue yet it lights up that pale yellow?

I have heard about the same thing on subarus except green. Has anyone come across this before?

pic

65913_525127610863737_1619932088_n.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/421110-r33-dash-cluster-colour-change/
Share on other sites

I could be wrong, but it sounds to me that the LED's are colour-filmed so if you look at your picture, the dispursement of light is more bluer in some parts but not all. I suggest you buy new LED's and try again - no they should not have any blue film on them at all as the glass globe itself should be the colour you chosen. I personally have BLUE LED's on mine and they look great and have last over 2 years now.

Yeah thats what i thought but i took them out and tested them and they definitely are white, atleast alot more white than what shows.

If that's the case then it's your desh...maybe someone painted them blue from the inside? Give them a clean and try again...

i have gone through this problem. I bought one set of cheap led's (supposed white) and they lit up pale blue. Then I went and splurged on more expensive leds from aus. Boom stark white. The second set I bought are those 9 led ones.

Is yours a single big led?

THIS

002.jpg

Instead of THIS

$%28KGrHqJ,!n4E9c-jnUi4BPhbE+0jT!~~60_35

Mines exactly the same, was looking for a clean crisp white but ended up with a slightly bluey purple. It looks like the only way to change it would be to change the face of the gauges I guess. My originals also had the blue caps on them.

Yeah mate i do have those 9LED lights, i took them out and in the dark checked them in a number plate light holder, and they are very white. Atleast ALOT whiter than they show in the dash, the seller which sent me the leds sent me another batch which should've been slightly whiter, and they look a little less blue... Not sure what to do haha maybe white just aint going to happen. Thanks for help so far though guys.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
    • Yes they do. For some maybe. But for those used the most by abusers, ie Skylines, the numbers are known. The stock eyebrow height for R32/3 Skylines is about 365/375mm or thereabouts. The minimum such heights are recorded in adjacent columns in the database.
×
×
  • Create New...